Steering arm/track rod end

[moggiegeek]

Replacing track rod ends and have found the new taper rotates in the steering arm as you try and tighten the nylock nut. Track rod end has a grease nipple on top
Any tricks of the trade to overcome this?
No non nylock nuts to be seen in the workshop!

[Bowie69]

G-clamp around the track rod/steering arm.

[geoberni]

There's a lot of options... speaking generally on the matter rather that Minor specifics, ...
Some TREs have a couple of flats that you can get a spanner on.
Sometimes a pair of needle nose pliers will do the job,
Sometimes a 'gentle/medium' tap with a hammer will wedge it in enough to let it grip,
As Bowies69 says, a G Clamp can sometimes work to push it into place,
Make sure it's not covered in grease; it can be a choice between keeping it from rusting together and being able to actually fit it...

I've only ever changed one TRE on my car and that time the gentle tap method worked.

[moggiegeek]

Hi, some TREs have a helpful Allen key head, I'll degrease it and try thin nose pliers and hammer on top carefully avoiding thin top and grease nipple.
For same reason G clamp won't work.
Unhelpfully nylock is completely level with base of bolt otherwise I could cut a screwdriver slot. Maybe I will anyway.........
Simple five minute job.......

[panky]

I've used a clamp type ball joint splitter in reverse to lock the taper and get the nut started. You will probably need to remove the grease nipple though.

[simmitc]

Agree with all above. One other trick that sometimes works: twist the TRE to one side as far as it will go. This exerts sideways force on the pin. You could also, if you know the thread, invest in a few non-nyloc nuts. Castled nuts will allow yo to fit a split pin (after drilling the TRE to suit) or a full nut with a half nut to lock it. There are plenty of online suppliers who will supply small quantities if you don;t have a proper ironmongers near you.

[panky]

Or use a plain nut to tighten the TRE then replace it with the nyloc.

[moggiegeek]

Thanks for the tips - in the end cleaning the joint of copaslip and jacking up the kingpin whilst using a bar and loop of rope to push down with my foot to lock up the taper enabled me to gently cut the thread into the nylock - like using a tap.
So in celebratory mode here's a piccie of the entire rebuild front end on one side. Pending final tighten down and knocking up locking washers/ split pins etc
Very satisfying.

[geoberni]

.... cleaning the joint of copaslip ...

No surprise it wasn't gripping then.

[jagnut66]

So in celebratory mode here's a piccie of the entire rebuild front end on one side.

Interesting colour choice......
Oddly enough, I find I quite like it, it stands out and looks smart.
I hope the paint you chose stands up to tests of time in that exposed position.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[Grumpy21]

I’ve always used several layers of large washers with the nut to force the taper to grip before backing the nut off, removing the washers then tightening the unlock nut correctly. Never failed yet.

[simmitc]

One of the things that I like about this Board is the number of different solutions that people have to the same problem. None of them are wrong, they just offer a choice of correct solutions that have been proved by practical experience and are shared freely for the benefit of others. Perhaps I should start a thread on achieving World Peace...

[taupe]

Yes please if you have a good solution...

T

[moggiegeek]

For info the paint was Rustoleum for steel beams from a tin over an anti rust primer. Would have used yellow hammerite but don't find the colour density very good.
Inspired by Phil's immaculately engineered work.