Painting your classic
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
Loads of places still do cellulose - but it must be for 'classic car restoration'. Plenty on ebay last time I looked ! What colour are you aiming for ?Here's one for example - probably there is a 'Jawel' near you ? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-PAINT-CELLULO ... 7C294%3A50
This one a bargain at the moment - if you fancy red ?? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tartan-red-cellul ... 7C294%3A50
This one a bargain at the moment - if you fancy red ?? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tartan-red-cellul ... 7C294%3A50
Katie it's at cannon park Middlebrough,don't know the street but sure it will be in the yellow pages Try Yell .com.Quite easy to get to just off the a 66 on the outskirts of the town and you can park up outside the door.Down A19 off at A66 first turnoff into M,bro and you are about there.They are very helpfull and will give you all the advice about mixture and spray pressure.They also mix up and do spray cans as well.
Thanks that's really helpful. I'll definitely get some cellulose then.
Can two pack be used with a respirator mask and goggles? I suppose not? It seems a shame I can't use the paint I've got but health is more important than anything.
That company shouldn't be selling it to amateurs, should they?
Can two pack be used with a respirator mask and goggles? I suppose not? It seems a shame I can't use the paint I've got but health is more important than anything.
That company shouldn't be selling it to amateurs, should they?
[sig]9631[/sig]
That mask would only be any use IF you do a proper 'fit test' before using it with the paint. For the 'fit test' - you need special equipment (hood + sweetner spray) and training how to do the test! It's really really NOT a good idea for you. Amazingly - they are selling that mask - yet printing in red below that Gov Legislation etc etc requires a pressure fed mask - which that is certainly NOT!!
Just get some celly (and high build primer and thinners) and get on with it!
Note you need 'good' thinner for final paint coats - but primer can use a cheaper thinner - sometimes also known as 'gun wash'!
What spray gun are you planning on using ??
Just get some celly (and high build primer and thinners) and get on with it!
Note you need 'good' thinner for final paint coats - but primer can use a cheaper thinner - sometimes also known as 'gun wash'!
What spray gun are you planning on using ??
katie just as an aside you can brush or roller 2k,there was a thread about it (Do a search) It's only dodgy when you spray since there are fine particles in the air to breath in But none when you brush,I've not tried it myself but some say that you get a reasonably good finish with the roller,have a try on some scrap metal and see what it looks like,might save you wasting the paint. Just a thought.
-
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 394
- Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 10:49 pm
- Location: Fife Scotland
- MMOC Member: No
This is the sort of mask to use (and what I used) when spraying 2K paint-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DeVilbiss-Air-Fed ... 7C294%3A50
The air feed from your compressor supplies air into the mask and as it pushes air out of the mask, this prevents you breathing in the fumes - positive pressure as BMC says.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DeVilbiss-Air-Fed ... 7C294%3A50
The air feed from your compressor supplies air into the mask and as it pushes air out of the mask, this prevents you breathing in the fumes - positive pressure as BMC says.
[sig]8143[/sig]
Aye - but you need an oil-free compressor AND special filter unit to clean the air before it's pumped into the mask - and your lungs!! And another compressor for the spraying. Let's see the details of the 'good quality mask' Kate! But kennatt is right enough - brushing/rolling will carry v low risk - if that's the finish you want.
-
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 394
- Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 10:49 pm
- Location: Fife Scotland
- MMOC Member: No
If your compressor does not have a regulator you will need to fit one to bring the pressure down to a suitable PSI for spraying, I always set mine to around 50psi but its personal preference to a certain extent.
Something like this to regulate your air-
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... t-air-hose
Something like this to regulate your air-
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... t-air-hose
[sig]8143[/sig]
-
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 394
- Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 10:49 pm
- Location: Fife Scotland
- MMOC Member: No
Thats what I had and proper devilbiss stuff - luckily my friend/neighbour was in this line of work so has the proper equipment.bmcecosse wrote:Aye - but you need an oil-free compressor AND special filter unit to clean the air before it's pumped into the mask - and your lungs!! And another compressor for the spraying. Let's see the details of the 'good quality mask' Kate! But kennatt is right enough - brushing/rolling will carry v low risk - if that's the finish you want.
[sig]8143[/sig]
Yes - I have a filter set myself, although absolutely no ontention of spraying 2K!
The compressor (if anything like mine) will have adjustable output regulator - the tank will always run up to 110 psi, but the output to the spray gun can be adjusted down - should be a pressure gauge on the output side ? I have sprayed as low as 20 psi - just depends how much paint you want to throw on, and how thin you make the paint.
The compressor (if anything like mine) will have adjustable output regulator - the tank will always run up to 110 psi, but the output to the spray gun can be adjusted down - should be a pressure gauge on the output side ? I have sprayed as low as 20 psi - just depends how much paint you want to throw on, and how thin you make the paint.
You can use 'cheap' thinner (sometimes called 'gunwash') for the primer and maybe even the first colour coat - but you should use premium thinner for the final colour coats. Mix at about 50/50 and see how it goes - but I usually have it a bit thinner, and then of course the risk of 'runs' is greater. Trick is to move the gun steadily ALL the time, and keep it parallel to the target, and about 18" away - lifting off the trigger at the end of each horizontal stroke. You DO NOT wave it about like a flame thrower!
Carefull using 'gun wash' in the topcoat a lot of companies now tint this product to discourage you from doing so.
Spraying as BM says but the first coat 'hanger'/gripper' coat should be a light dusting of paint over the primed surface. Always spray the edges first then the full panel , lifting off the trigger only when past the panel. Don't try and paint it too quickly and allow at least 15 mins drying time between coats.
Always stir the tin well atleast 100 revolutions especially with reds, making sure that you stir from the bottom of the tin where the tinters will settle. Mix 1 to 1 with good thinners and mix well , use a fine strainer when decanting the paint mix into the gun.
Spraying as BM says but the first coat 'hanger'/gripper' coat should be a light dusting of paint over the primed surface. Always spray the edges first then the full panel , lifting off the trigger only when past the panel. Don't try and paint it too quickly and allow at least 15 mins drying time between coats.
Always stir the tin well atleast 100 revolutions especially with reds, making sure that you stir from the bottom of the tin where the tinters will settle. Mix 1 to 1 with good thinners and mix well , use a fine strainer when decanting the paint mix into the gun.