traveller rear post how to replace

[mikeysmorris]

Hi all, how do you replace the r/h rear post on the traveller, can it be done without removing the roof, and how is it held together, i know there is a bolt at the bottom but i don't know how it fixed at the middle rail and top, could some one please put up a diagram that shows the mounting points or pm one, thanks for any help received, Mikey

[simmitc]

Apart from the bolt at the bottom (it goes through the to inside of the arch, IIRC) there is a bracket at the top, partly hidden by the roof lining. There is sometimes a crew drive into the post from the side rail, hidden in the corner underneath the window channel. More importantly, there are mortice and tenon joints from the mid and top side rails and also the cross rail over the top of the rear doors. The corner of the guttering is probably nailed into the top of the corner post.

The real question is why does the post need replacing? Although the post can be replace don its own, it's often much better to replace the entire side, offered up ready assembled.

[mikeysmorris]

Hi, thanks for reply and info, the reason i need to replace just the rear post is because someone in the past has done a botch job repair and the wood is soft just around it, this has been bugging me since i get the car and i really need it sorted, they didn't Even use the right wood for the bodge, the post is OK but has cracks and is in poor condition just there, i have placed an order for one from ESM but they are out of stock just now, do you think i could do the repair my self i am a chef but i have done a lot of other repairs on the car including welding, if not i will have to pester my brother in law hes a chippy, as you can see from photos its a pretty bad repair, thanks for any replies Mikey.[frame][/frame]

[polo2k]

With the state of that repair I would forget about what was done at the factory as that could be held by any thing! If you can I would suggest bracing all the pieces that connect to it so that they dont move while the post is off.

[simmitc]

Amazing how good the mid rail looks and how bad the post is. I can see why you want to replace the later. The posts up to around 1968 seem to have been mainly solid, but the later ones were laminated (presumably cheaper as they could use the off-cuts from some to make up the others), and these do come apart over the years. The only concern is what the tenon the mid rail is like, and you're not going to know until you start cutting the old post out - no going back at that point!

You can get the post direct from Steve Foreman at Woodies, and he's an expert in these matters, so might well be able to offer you some more advice. Good luck.

[aupickup]

there is a lot of laminated timber used in the construction industry for main beams in halls etc
lamintaed timber in this form is very strong, actually stronger than one solid piece of timber

modern glues are used and these do stand the test of time

if it is only the tenon that has gone in the midrail then you can let a false tenon in

[mikeysmorris]

Hi all,thanks for all the feedback on this and i will take it on board, i can see where all the joints are from the ESM listing but i would still like to see a diagram of the fixings so i know I've got them all out, i don't want to do more damage by pulling at it having missed some screws, so if anyone can help with this it will help,
best regards Mikey.

[newagetraveller]

[frame][/frame]

The problem is that the way that travellers were built originally the wood was assembled on a jig, then the roof was nailed on top, then the whole lot was bolted and screwed onto the chassis.

Fixing the rear pillar to the middle rail is not a problem because the two screws are easily accessible from the inside.

Fixing the rear pillar to the top section is difficult because you really need to lift up the end of the roof to get at the screws.

The rear pillar is fixed to the rear wheel arch by three screws which are hidden underneath the rear wing but visible in the picture. It is screwed to the rear base rail by two screws from the inside which are hidden by the corner brackets in the picture and are difficult to access because when the wood is on the car the wheel arch is in the way.

Good Luck!

[mikeysmorris]

Hello your a gentleman and a star, thanks for your diagram i see now that its way over my head to tackle this, i will have to get a professional job done, thank you for your time best regards Mikey

[mikeysmorris]

Hi all, just an update on my first full year with molly, i got a new rear post fitted and stained to try to match the rest of the wood and i think its not bad, i have done 4,800 miles this year with only one problem two of the new front wheel Cly leaked badly after only 6 months not happy , other than that no breakdowns or faults, and to add icing to the cake molly passed the mot yesterday and with no advisories regards Mikey. ps the bike in the photo is my dads 1939 bsa m21. [frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Great success! Well done - it's always nice to hear progress reports!

[chickenjohn]

Great! looks like a nice car .

If the wheel cylinders are that new and leaking I would take them back and ask for a replacement. Wheel cylinders should last a good few years.