Runs on rails

[silloyd]

I'm restoring my wood and so have removed the sliding side windows. I had to remove the channels that the glass slides in (a) because they weren't fitted correctly, i.e. windows wouldn't slide properly, (b) to get at the top of the middle rail, and (c) because that was the only way that I could get the glass out.

I thought that it should have been possible to remove the glass by removing the capping rail and stops and then with the inner pane at the front of the channel, lifting the glass and pulling the bottom forward (and similarly for the outer pane) - is that correct?

Can someone describe to me how I should fit the new channel please, e.g. should the inner channel be cut short of the stop to allow easier removal? Step-by-step guide for a novice or some pics would be especially helpful.

[simmitc]

Often the windows won't slide simply because they are never slid. The channel deteriorates and attracts mould, and everything just grows together. Unlike sliding cupboard doors, the glass panels are a snug fit, and do not lift up into the top in order to clear the bottom rail. When fitting, you secure the top slides, then insert the outer windows, fit the lower runner, and push the whole thing into place before securing the lower channel. You can move the glass backwards and forwards in order to gain access for securing the channel. However, it now stands to reason that you cannot remove the glass without destroying the channel - but then it's always word out anyway. Securing can be by copper tacks - bang the heads down so that they do not catch the glass. Do not distort the runner into the groove in the wood - the groove is to allow water to drain, and if blocked, will contribute to wood rot and the deterioration of the window runner.

[silloyd]

Thanks simmitc, that makes sense.

When re-fitting I know that I need to use Dum Dum but from your description I need to apply it only to the sides and ends of each new lower channel and not the bottoms, to avoid the risk of accidentally filling in the drainage grooves in the wood. Is that correct?

Also, won't the tacks end up in the middle of the channel and therefore block the middle of the groove?

[ASL642]

You can use DumDum for the lower edge - just make sure the holes aren't blocked by it. Use a skewer or a knitting needle and poke it up the hole from outside the car to make sure the hole is clear after fitting. As far as the tacks are concerned if they are hammered well down into the furry channel they won't impair the glass running back and forth.

[silloyd]

Thanks ASL642,

simmitc's response suggests that I should leave the grooves in the wood clear, whereas you are suggesting I fill them and rely on the channel to drain to the various holes, is that correct? I think I'd rather rely on the channel to act as a gutter, rather than my slightly deteriorated wood.

Understand that I need to get the head of the nails away from the glass but if the answer to the above is that the grooves should be left clear then I would have thought that the shaft of each nail will be in the middle of the channel and therefore in the middle of the groove, hence blocking drainage?!?

Hope that makes sense; I'm just trying to get this right first time

[ASL642]

It's up to you regarding the DumDum. I found that it's use helped "bed" the channel down to the wood.

Yes the small pins/tacks do end up in the centre of the channels, but as said before if hammered down well they do not stop the operation of the sliding glass. I re-wooded my Traveller 2007 and all my windows work smoothly. Dran holes, drain. Just remember to keep channels clear of moss/leaves and feed the drain holes in the wood with a preservative on something like a cotton bud once a year and all should be fine.

[simmitc]

The tacks go in to the corner of the channel at an angle, so they should be clear of the groove - sorry, I should have mentioned that before. As assembled, the grooves were kept clear of any form of gunge, and many lasted for 40+ years. The great thing about the MMOC is that there's room for differing schools of thought, and we can respect each other's views. Mine remains that the grooves should be kept clear. If varnished before fitting the channel, the wood should be fine. The real problem lies from ingress via the end grain, as found in the drainage holes, and it's very difficult to seal that!

[silloyd]

Agree that differing views are helpful and your collective experiences are priceless, thank you!

I have some rot (on the top of the middle rail where the channels sit) that I've had to remove, wood harden and fill, I'm erring towards the side of filling the grooves with Dum Dum and making sure the new channels are kept clear to act as the gutters.

Point about nailing at an angle noted.

Car lives in the garage most of the time so won't get wet very often but will still need to be capable of coping with rain on outings.

[8009STEVE]

To get my windows in or out, I have to use a













jack.

[silloyd]

????...because of the length of the roof? ...or is there just someone you know called 'Jack' that's really good at it?



BTW, I noticed earlier that the waist rail has a slight curve along it's length, which has clearly been contributing to the window sticking. Obviously warped over the 40 years since it was made, especially with the good soaking its had. Ho hum, out with the chisel and plane for a little woodworking methinks