Bitumen undersealing

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heathy12
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Bitumen undersealing

Postby heathy12 » Fri Nov 11, 2011 9:28 pm

Had to carry out some DIY round the house last weekend applying anti damp - waterproofing round the base bricks/concrete of my house.

The paint I used from Wickes was a Bitumen based dry touch matt finish concrete and metal paint. Smelt great applying but dried smoothe and dry.

Ive still over 3litres left so im wondering if anyones used a similar based or the same stuff come o that to underseal their cars???

I know bitumen is the standard traditional method of undersealing but the older undersealing ive seen the bitumen is quite thick and soft the touch..and peels off easily....and allows ingress of water underneath and holds water against the metal.

Thinking of applying the remainder of the paint I have left on my minors!!
JLH MORRIS MINOR RESTORATION & MODIFICATION

8009STEVE
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Re: Bitumen undersealing

Postby 8009STEVE » Sat Nov 12, 2011 12:06 am

Slap it on. It can't be any worse than salt.

PaulTubby
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Re: Bitumen undersealing

Postby PaulTubby » Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:16 pm

Sadly i dont agree, i wouldnt use bitumen based underseal or sealers as moisture does tend to get underneath and trap in damp and cause rot. ive seen many cars look solid underneath until you start scraping the sealer away and fined many holes and horrors! I always use a good red oxide primer followed by chassis paint and then waxoyl. This is the best way as if the waxoyl gets rubbed of or damaged then its protected still with the paint etc. waxoyl or dinitrol 3125 is the best stuff to use under a minor inc cavites such as chassis legs, door bottoms, sills etc... just make sure you clean the drain holes after you have done it as the waxoyl etc does tens to fill them up as its skins over, waxoyl never dries and stays flexible all the time. I would recomend recoating a car every two years if use alot and parked out in all weathers. :)


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