Peetee wrote:Cam, I don't think a Dremel would have the power to derust a corner of your car. I have a hobbycraft drill and it's fine, with the right bits, for polishing combustion chambers but it really struggles with a wire bit.
your best bet would probably be a 'normal' mains drill with a pointed wire head shaped like a artists brush.
Yeah the Dremel won't work miracles, but still pretty good for light rust in a tight spot. Also great with the cutting disc as a wee cut off saw for removing nuts/boltheads without the risk of damage to surrounding panels you get with a grinder. I'll try and take a little vid tomorrow and chuck it somewhere you can see it.
Just to be really useful (as normal ;)) I use a sand blaster gun on my compressor, followed by the hammerite rust eating primer... (again in halfrauds)
Serial Morris Minor Owner and Old Vehicle Nutter
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just as a further thought, I use Kurust by Hammerite after wire brushing, just to make sure all the rust has gone. You only need to use a small amount and it turns blue as it is working. Top coat after 3 hours, and I think it is about £3.99 for a 90ml pot. Bear in mind I practically had to immerse my car in a bath of the stuff when I got it (well, not quite) a pot goes a long way - I am only halfway through my second pot You probably know all that anyway but just in case!
ed, yes I have used Kurust in the past (still have nearly a full pot left) but I have had bad experiences with it. My mate has had even worse!! He had paint bubbling through in weeks, and I had it in months so I was not very impressed...........
For what it's worth. there's a short film of the Dremel here http://www.bigginger.com/html/boring_film.html . I assumed that you would be on a decent connection - it's about 18Mb, and a Quicktime .mov. Both these things easiliy changed, if anyone's anxious to see it. It's real edge of the seat stuff...
I know it's a pain but shotblasting is the best method, as when it comes back it is like working on a new car( well after you have done some hoovering)..
best part is you deliver the car, pay £100 and the collect it all nice and done....
Iain, thanks for the piccies, I think you might have answered a question for me.
Your flitch extension panels... do you know if they are original? Mine seem to be but I thought they were the wrong type, but they seem identical to yours with the bend in them to clear the sidelights.
Trouble is with the sandblasting is that for me it involves finding a place that does it, and hiring a trailer twice (2 x £40) + £100 = £180. I could probably buy/hire a small compressor and do it myself for that much??
Plus I think you had a pretty solid car to start with, with no major panel replacements. I would give them my car and get a collander back!!!
Last edited by Cam on Wed Oct 27, 2004 4:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
mine are original and have the bend to miss the sidelight my pictures dont seem to show the bend well
i sent my range rover shell away and it came back like a colinder but at least it was clean, and easy to weld to... and held no supprises
If you are going to do the mm i would think £180 is money very well spent.. Dont do it you self as the mess terrible and you need to hire a massive compressor, shot blasting gear and an air fed mask.
mine was done in four hours so you should only need the trailior for one day
Hmmm........ well in the engine bay and boot floor there are places I can't get to, so the shotblasting idea sounds a good one. Do they etch prime it too while they are at it?
Maybe I should get mine done when the time comes.
This £100. That was not for the entire car was it?
turbominor wrote:was for complete car except roof and rear wings plus bit buy wipers ( but they said £100 for all as well!) and sprayed in 2 coats zinc sulphate.
Well, I don't need the roof doing or rear wings (as I'm getting new ones). Why not the bit by the wipers? and did they do all the underside and interior?
Why not the bit by the wipers? and did they do all the underside and interior?
problem with shot blasting is it can texture the surface and makes the paint preperation very hard, i had all of my engine bay blasted and the bits above damper level have a patterned effect in the paint.. if you do the main pannels that you intend to paint it takes a lot of minor filling and priming to remove. The chap who painted it said get every thing done except the roof , rear boot surround and wiper panel..
I had the edges of the rear arches and the guttering blasted to be sure of no problems. But every thing else was done
in this pic you can see how far i went!
only tip for inside is to scrap any glue or wax of before it goes
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