Etch primer aerosol vs spray gun / Full repsray vs touch up

[nwxh]

1. Will there be any difference in finish between using etch primer in aerosol vs a spray gun?
(I am planning to do prep myself and pay for a professional respray)

2. There are places with rust coming through. In terms of bodywork protection, is a touch up as good as a complete respray or will there be hidden rust only removed by going back to bare metal?

[tysonn]

The fact that youre asking that question suggests that you dont have the skill to prep the car to a good enough standard for a respray.Its that basic prep that defines a good paint job.The top gloss coat is the easy bit.I doubt any reputable paint shop would even risk their reputation putting a nice gloss on a badly prepared car.Remember "you cant polish a t**d".I arent making a personal comment here,simply trying to save you wasting your money.Start asking questions on here how to go about it from scratch.Anyone can gather the skills and equipment to do a nice paint job and its very satisfying knowing you did it yourself and saved money at the same time.
Mick

[bmcecosse]

All rust must be eliminated, not just sprayed over.,. Worry about the underside structures long before cosmetic s.

[nwxh]

Edit: created a new post asking for the details "from scratch": http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=60120

I definitely don't have the skill having never done it before in my life. I'd hand sand with a block and go through the grades. Wire brush the paint off with an angle grinder?

If the car was metalled without being etch primed, wouldn't rust grow back by the time the chassis is handed over?

Or are you suggesting that I should do every stage myself or pay for someone to do the whole thing?

[nwxh]

All rust must be eliminated, not just sprayed over.,. Worry about the underside structures long before cosmetic s.

Which means bare metal in case there's hidden rust? I'm aware of the latter. I'm only proposing a respray of the structural steel for now (the doors, bonnet and probably roof can wait).

[MrIan]

Yes you can strip all the paint off of the car yourself but it is honestly a flippin heck of a job. Thn you've got the rust to contend with and that's either A- slight surface pitting or B - severe pitting. 'A' you might be able to grind out with a die grinder or dremmel type tool 'B' would to be honest need cutting out and replacing with good steel.
Don't strip your car paint with an angle grinder !!!
In all honesty the best you'll get at home with rattle cans will be a finish just to protect from surface rust (see ps) , which then a good body shop would remove anyway so it could be prepped. Now are you sorting dents and ripples in the bodywork? as it would be a shame to get a nice glossy finish that shows everyone of them off clearly.
ps - People can and do get very good finishes at home mind you so it is possible at a push even with rattle cans (would cost mind you).
The main thing to remember are the 5 Ps.
Perfect Prep Prevents Poor Performance. (there are 6 really but people always take the p**s out of it )

[MrIan]

Take a close look at each area of the paint to see if there are any blemishes at all in the finish as that could be rust underneath. Not all cars need stripping back to bare metal for a respray BUT it is safer to due to paint reaction and or hidden rust. Would be a shame to pile respray money to have it popping rust or cracking within a few months.

[nwxh]

Thanks for the tips. The wire brush in angle grinder comes from an experienced restorer (though I gather you can get better ends than wire brush). Wouldn't a body shop be able to put filler into etch primed but pitted surfaces? Surely if they received it as sanded bare metal, it'd have new rust on it by the time it arrives?

I'm looking for a "half way point" between paying for a complete prep and respray (expensive) and doing minimal welding for MOT (bad idea if the car's getting new wood right?).

Take a close look at each area of the paint to see if there are any blemishes at all in the finish as that could be rust underneath. Not all cars need stripping back to bare metal for a respray BUT it is safer to due to paint reaction and or hidden rust. Would be a shame to pile respray money to have it popping rust or cracking within a few months.

There's no doubt that there's rust underneath in some sections as's reached through the paint. Does that mean that complete respray is the way forward?

[MrIan]

Some say as soon as you can see rust breaking through the paint the metal will need replacing. Basic rule of thumb is you can't stop rust when it has started. As I said even slight surface pitting should be removed with a dremmel then weld added and ground back. Yes you can skim treated rust pitting with filler but it will return and it'd be such a shame if you've spent a lot of money on a respray over skimmed rust. If you could find a friend of a friend that could give it a quick coat of paint over your prep work just to get it all one colour cheaply I'd go for that. Not as a botch but as a get it looking presentable on the cheap. Other option is blimey resprays can run into £1,000s of pounds.
I personally wouldn't entertain a full pro respray unless the car was very very good condition to start with.

[nwxh]

Cheers, but what's the alternative to full respray? Weld for MOT and then let it rot?

What's the definition of good? Only 3 areas need welding, but I suppose bear metalling will show more damage?

I think I could afford a £1000 respray but not more. I suppose getting just the Traveller chassis done sans doors, roof and bonnet should make it cheaper? Presumably it'd be cheaper if I give it sanded to bear metal, even if the experts do some extra prep and filler work?

[MrIan]

I really think it'd be best to contact a respray firm and discuss it with them as some might not want you to strip and etch prime. Some might say get it blast stripped. There are so many variations for you to end up with a resprayed car it's best to discuss it with them to be honest.
You could post up some pictures on here showing the condition as we've no idea !

[kennatt]

think the point has been missed here,are you saying its the chassis and underside you are doing,or the outer body, makes a massive difference in what you do to it.

[nwxh]

I've added pictures here:
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=60120

I plan to address everyrthing except the doors, Al metal and bonnet.

[bmcecosse]

Just do one area at a time, and temporarily protect with a rattle can spray - but NOT just primer.