Video: Morris Minor Horror film - Parts required

[The_Shopkeeper]

Hi All.
Second post on the forum so be gentle, and no, I don't have acting parts in a film.

My 2 door 1967 Morris 1000 failed it's MOT - I've only had her for 18 months.
To get easier access to the front brakes and ball joint (fail), I took off the front wing, and that's when the horror story began.

Fibre-glass covers lots of holes doesn't it and once the wing came off, lots of fibre-glass peeled off too.

Probably best to view this video - it'll help explain the situation much better.
(Get a tissue ready)
https://vimeo.com/133224834

Once the wing was off, I could see holes through to the sill, so I took the kick plate off too (not part of the MOT fail)
More work with the wire brush and pincers revealed more holes.

There's lots to do - and my skill set if rather limited at the moment - but hey - I'm keen and the MIG has been fired up and is ready to go.

I'd like help identifying what replacement panels I need and what order they should be removed, and replaced.
I'm not after a concourse Minor, just a classic daily driver, and funds are limited.

I've yet to takeoff the rear wing as I assume the inner and outer sill goes front to back. I'm sure there are more hidden horrors back there.

I'm in East Herts. If members are close and could come and look, that'll be grand.

Does anyone have any soothing words.
My neighbours advise me to dump it with smirk... I'll show them.

[bmcecosse]

That's going to keep you busy for a while - and I guess the other side is the same..... Read the 'restoration' threads for inspiration and encouragement - and good luck with it...

[panky]

Haven't been so traumatised since I watched The Exorcist

[whyperion]

Looks like it has been poor repairs in the past, but you do have some good metal to attach stuff to, remember one side at a time, and all the parts are avalible. I have had worse repaired and done ( now have the next car back after 12 years needed a small outer sill re-weld ). So its not beyond the grave yet.

[The_Shopkeeper]

Hi All.
I've plucked up courage to revisit my project and tackle the Morris.
This past year I've attended evening classes at my local college and have certificates in Mig and Tig welding so I'm confident I can do the necessary.

SO - new parts ordered, but I need a little advice please.

I have an inner wing repair panel, but I'm unsure how to fix it to the car.

Do I...

• * Trim the new panel to the corner just above the retained nuts and same on the car and do a corner joint or,

• * cut more of the car to accommodate the full size panel, or

• * shove the new panel under / over the existing metal

...and weld together?

These photos explain the location I'm discussing.

Dear forum. Can you help?

[frame][/frame]
[frame][/frame]

[Big Jim]

Are you going to try a but weld (difficult ) or a lapped joint (easier )

[The_Shopkeeper]

Hi Big Jim
I'm going to attempt a butt weld as lap welding creates moisture traps and encourages rust. (so my course tutor told us).
I think the best option is to cut new panel and car flat to the angle and do a super smooth corner weld.
Is this the better way?

[Big Jim]

That sounds a good approach .The join will be covered with mastic at that point if it goes a bit messy ! Keep tack welding and checking the gap line with the bonnet .

[bmcecosse]

Never do lap joints.... The mystery for me is why you took the wing off in the first place - but probably just as well you did......

[Redmoggy]

Because the cut on the car is so high, I would be inclined to trim away the inner wing until you have just the flat top part. Then without cutting the repair panel clamp it in place so it sits tight against the underside. Now bolt up the front wing to pull everything into place. You can now scribe the repair panel along it top edge and trim for a perfect butt weld fit. Where ever possible avoid a lap weld that does replicate a factory seam.

Rod

[Big Jim]

I agree lap joints are not usually the best way forward , but sometimes it is difficult to not to do so . A lap joint is stronger especially if it is stepped and it is often easier to retain the correct shape . The car is already covered in original lap joints , the spot welded flanges , and bolting the wing back on is another lap joint .

[Redmoggy]

Jim, are you able to substantiate your claim that a lap weld is stronger or are you voicing an opinion?

Rod

[bmcecosse]

If you weld both edges - it will be stronger - but the snag is the possible water/ rust trap.

[The_Shopkeeper]

Thanks for all your replies - I'll give is a go - when I get round to it...
No mystery really bmcecosse. It was obvious that there was rust which needed attention. I just had no idea how much fibreglass there was where once there was metal! The wing had to come off.

But - i've hit another problem which I'm sure many first timers have faced... How do all these panels line up when there wasn't much to go by in the first place.

On this front corner, I've put in a box panel repair, an inner and outer sill repair, a lower inner wing repair panel and fabricated a new piece of metal for the bottom of the scuttle kidney panel.

Now I want to attach this new flat inner wing, I'm concerned I've "cocked it up" somewhat.

Perhaps the lower inner wing panel is too far 'out' and should line up with - erm.. Don't know.

I attach photographs of the current situation of this repair. I know you'll howl and be amused (or horrified) - but hope you dear people can give me a few pointers as to what on earth I have done.
I know it's not correct and anything can be put right.
I do not want to throw in the towel yet.

[frame][/frame]
[frame][/frame]
[frame][/frame]

(Mod - should I change the title of this thread to something more useful?)

[Redmoggy]

Very first thing, turn the power and wire speed up on your MIG. You will get a flatter more consistent weld with better penetration.

So far I can not see much wrong with what you have. The inner wing repair you want to fit should clamp up along the seam of the the Kidney panel with a folded seam at the bottom that sits onto your new sill. You will also need to drill a series of holes that line up with the kidney shaped part of the kidney panel so you pan plug weld the two together. Before this though you will need to mock the panel up and ensure it follows the line of your repair to the wheel well.

It would be helpful at this point to have your A post, door, good hinges and front wing handy. You will need to mock all these panels up in order to make sure the door is going to fit. They can all be screwed or clamped into place and then jiggled for the best fit.

Regards
Rod

[Big Jim]

Jim, are you able to substantiate your claim that a lap weld is stronger or are you voicing an opinion?

Rod

I use these when doing a lap weld , which put a step into the joint which will stiffen the joint . welding both sides will double the strength and I suggest even a flat lap joint is stronger for an armature welder to achieve a stronger joint and less chance of blowing through .It i basically a flattened "T" which puts an extra angle into the joint .

[Redmoggy]

Thank you for the reply, Jim. I just wanted to make sure I had not missed something.

Regards
Rod

[The_Shopkeeper]

Thanks for the replies Rod and Jim, and I appreciate the tips regarding tweaking the Mig.
I'll certainly bear that in mind next time I fire it up.
This project is taking place on the front drive so I'm limited to fair weather fixing.

I'm still troubled by my work so far.
Putting aside the standard of welding for a moment, I'd like some confirmation about how the sill meets the lower inner wing repair panel.
If the inner wing panel was to lay along the door seam and along the lower inner wing repair panel - I have an gap don't I?

Pictures are best - so here's a close up.

[frame][/frame]

If anyone else has a picture of this particular area, please do share, simply to put my mind at rest.

[Big Jim]

As you are working outside , be aware of windy days , it will blow the gas away from the weld .

[taupe]

Yes... on the face of it your new inner wing is about 1" too far out at present...

Taupe