Suggested starting point

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scutter
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Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:36 pm
Location: Oxfordshire
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Suggested starting point

Post by scutter »

Greetings All, I've just joined the Forum, after taking on a 1000 restoration for a family friend.

I've removed all the wings to see the extent of the rust!!

So far, the front r/h Fwd chassis leg is gone to all extent and purposes, The lower front X-member, and r/h tie plate at it's fwd 2".

Both inner wings have been badly repaired in the past, so that the vertical surface is falling apart, also fwd end of sills are holed.

Both rear floor pans need replacing along with the r/h fwd spring hanger.

That's most of it apart from a few small patches. I know it sounds bad, but it's is saveable.

Now the Question: Out of the list above, where would you suggest starting.

Regards Dan.
bmcecosse
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Re: Suggested starting point

Post by bmcecosse »

I would do all the front end first - to make it strong enough to tip the shell on it's side to do the rear end. However - i suspect a lot more damage will be revealed when you start work - so make sure you have done a very thorough survey (boot floor - rear chassis legs etc) before you start any welding - and you should tot up the cost of the panels to decide if it really is worth restoring.
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scutter
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Re: Suggested starting point

Post by scutter »

That was my thought, thankfully the owner has a sentimental attachment and has gotten 90% of the panels and a sheet of steel.

How does this sound for a jobs list?

Front X-member,
Fwd r/h tie plate,
Inner wings and sill ends,
Fwd r/h chassis leg,
R/h spring hanger and r/h rear footwell,
L/h spring hanger and l/h rear footwell,
Patch what's left!

Any other advice gratefully recieved, Dan.
Redmoggy
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Re: Suggested starting point

Post by Redmoggy »

Remove the kick plates to properly check the inner sill structure. It's also always a good idea to ensure the doors open and close properly with good gaps and hinges. If the shell requires any adjustment now will be the time to do it and add some bracing to keep it in check.

Once you are happy that the shell is the right shape and is going to retain that shape you can begin to rebuild the structure. Where you start is not as important as making sure it will all fit when your done.

Regards
Rod
scutter
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Re: Suggested starting point

Post by scutter »

Cheers Rod, I hadn't realised that the outer part of the sill was removable. WD40 has been applied to the bolts.

Regards Dan.
mogbob
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Re: Suggested starting point

Post by mogbob »

Dan
Just a " heads up " on the sill cover nuts and bolts. Despite the application of WD40 or penetrating fluids, etc , because of their position , they get loads of water and general road debris thrown at them. 40 / 50 years on , the rust is solid.
Undo what you can but be prepared to get out the angle grinder to cut the nuts and bolts off for those that aren't moving anywhere !
Bob
scutter
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Re: Suggested starting point

Post by scutter »

Cheers Bob, The angle grinder is my favoured spanner :D

Dan.
DAVIDMCCULLOUGH
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Re: Suggested starting point

Post by DAVIDMCCULLOUGH »

I would have a good look through some of the exsisiting restoration threads here on the messageboard to give yourself some ideas. Heres a link to car that Stevey and I restored, we started at the boot just to practise MIG, but then moved on the make the floor good before tipping it and working our way round the whole car.

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... 4&start=60


Too many Minors so little time.....
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