drilling holes to drain water from the pan
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drilling holes to drain water from the pan
I'm sure this has been discussed before but I can't find the thread.
When water leaks through the side and rear windows, it settles in the floor pan thing (what's it called? the thing with the series of holes along the top that supports the front edge of the rear seat).
Drying it out is tough and I'm wondering if it would make more sense to drill holes through from underneath to act as a permanent drain.
Any advice? Good idea? Bad idea? And how would you stop the edges of the drilled holes from rusting?
Malcolm
When water leaks through the side and rear windows, it settles in the floor pan thing (what's it called? the thing with the series of holes along the top that supports the front edge of the rear seat).
Drying it out is tough and I'm wondering if it would make more sense to drill holes through from underneath to act as a permanent drain.
Any advice? Good idea? Bad idea? And how would you stop the edges of the drilled holes from rusting?
Malcolm
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The important thing here is to replace the rubbers as this is the only way to stop the water leaking into the car in the 1st place, because rust under the rear seat is one of the worst places to have a repair done.Drying it out is tough and I'm wondering if it would make more sense to drill holes through from underneath to act as a permanent drain.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Kevin, Have you been borrowing Chris Morleys computer or are you just determined not to slip into 3rd place in the top-poster stakes??
Once the water is out of the area and it is VERY dry andf you have scratched free and hoovered out any rust flakes, you are well advised to waxoil the inside of the box section.
Contrary to popular opinion, this area is easy to repair, however as the spring mount needs to be strong and should also be passing the loads directly to the box section, it shouldn't be done in a random / slapdash fashion. (Bad repairs in this area seem to be prevalent, although a good repair is not very hard to do)
Then also make sure the sills have adequate drain holes!
I have done this on a fair number of Minors. You want the holes just behind the upright section otherwise they won't be at the lowest point of the box section. I tend to do one towards the prop tunnel and one at the outer edge of this area (near the spring mount). ie 2 per side, 4 in total. Anything up to 10mm should be fine. You need to debur the inside edge of the hole otherwise it will act as a lip and not be good at letting water out. The metal inside is likely to be bare and rusty but feel free to protect the fresh cut hole with red oxide or hammerite etc..Drying it out is tough and I'm wondering if it would make more sense to drill holes through from underneath to act as a permanent drain.
Once the water is out of the area and it is VERY dry andf you have scratched free and hoovered out any rust flakes, you are well advised to waxoil the inside of the box section.
Contrary to popular opinion, this area is easy to repair, however as the spring mount needs to be strong and should also be passing the loads directly to the box section, it shouldn't be done in a random / slapdash fashion. (Bad repairs in this area seem to be prevalent, although a good repair is not very hard to do)
Then also make sure the sills have adequate drain holes!
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Though I havnt done it, it looked an easy job, does that mean a reasonably good condition one can be cut off, the rusty area scrubbed away, primed and painted and then box section welded back on? I should follow your advice and waxoil the area again (last time the waxoil ran out:D) but if it was a cheap enough job to do the above would it be worth it to get rid of the bright orange rust?.Contrary to popular opinion, this area is easy to repair
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I would think its not too hard to do that box section in the middle of the car- SR did his, and I repaired the spring hanger at one side on my Traveller- which involved one end of the underside of the section.
Its just flat plate after all, lap welded to the floor on both sides. Just need a large piece of flat steel.
I agree with above though, that best to avoid this by replacing the rubbers to stop the leak, as re-sealing them only seems to last a year or two.
Its just flat plate after all, lap welded to the floor on both sides. Just need a large piece of flat steel.
I agree with above though, that best to avoid this by replacing the rubbers to stop the leak, as re-sealing them only seems to last a year or two.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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You're well out of date Ray, there's been no double posting by me or my computer since I ditched Internet Explorer about 6 months ago!Kevin, Have you been borrowing Chris Morleys computer
I would think the repair of the box section would be very difficult if it went anywhere near the spring hanger plates, plus it means grovelling right under the car unless you've got a roller. Of course the sensible advice is to stop the leak ASAP!
Chris
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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The area can be done using a single piece of thick steel under the spring hanger, making sure it is properly connected to the edge of the box section, floor and the sill (unlike the previous bodger's repair which was just a cover plate sitting in thin air, hence not lasting very long). All done in about 2.5 hours
This may be 20 times better than the average garage repair and last many years but is only a 'temporary' fix as a full repair section is the neater way to go and that will be done in due course.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
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Ray what double posting and as for the top poster stakes thats lower down my order of priorities than weeding my garden or sweeping the pavement outside my house !!!!!!!!Kevin, Have you been borrowing Chris Morleys computer or are you just determined not to slip into 3rd place in the top-poster stakes??
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Moderator MMOC 44706
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Why thank you FredRAY, that's the prettiest shade of rust I've seen in a long time!
I figure those of you with waxoil need to be reminded of what would happen without it ;-)
If the sills weren't 2 or 3 layers thick I'd consider it myself, but not worth it until they are done properly. Fortunatley I can leave the car tucked away in the garage if it looks like rain.
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