59 1000 Door aperture.

[scutter]

Folks,

I've been watching for a while, but this is my first post.

I've been restoring a 1959 1000 2 door for a friend, I was able to brace the drivers side door, but there wasn't enough strong material to brace the passengers. Even after careful measuring I've ended up with an aperture that's 4mm too small in certain places, namely on the screen surround and by the trafficator.

I have replaced the following on the passenger side, Inner front wing, front & rear floor pans, Inner and outer sills. I've yet to attach the hinge post namely because I cannot fit the door in the hole!!!

Does anyone have any suggestions of where I should cut or push with the jack, please feel free to make a suggestion. Thanks in advance.

Dan.

[firedrake1942]

1) What did you replace on the drivers side ?

2) take some measurements from fixed points. As I recall in the official workshop manual there was a triangulation chart for body repairs which gave check measurements for chassis straightness and points for taking those measurements from

These will enable you to ascertain where the 'glitch' is . Short of undoing the floor welding you have done I cannot thing of a less drastic solution

[scutter]

On the drivers side I replaced the Inner and outer sills and both floor pans, but was able to brace it properly.

I think the Chassis points are all related to the under-body and not the outer panels.

It's annoying me as I've done so much so far.

Regards Dan.

[firedrake1942]

there are two very useful diagrams in Section R (R16 / 17) One has measurements to ensure all points such as wheel hubs etc are correctly aligned.

The other shows alignment and measurement of panels for the body which may give you and idea of what has gone wrong. i.e. centre hub front wheel to centre jacking point = 39"; Wheelbase =89" this will give a clue as to what is too short and where.

There is a link on the other site where you can download a copy of the manual which is now, I believe, out of copyright

http://morrisminorowners.co.uk/index.ph ... 1ec46a86ec Section R Pages R16 and 17.

[scutter]

Many Thanks, I'll see where I've gone wrong, but can see a lot of steps backwards coming before progress is made.

Regards Dan

[kennatt]

Is it the original door or a replacement,is so compare with original or other side,could be the door is out.
from the angle of the indicator slot I would say that its the rear panel that's out,probably pulled forwards at the bottom by the replacement of the sill sections.\\just measure the gap at the bottom and compare with other side. If its out ,if it was mine,I would stick a body jack between the front and rear and see if I could gain enough to fit the door.Without a jack you may need to unpick the joint between the sill and rear panel. Its unusual for the gap to close up,the common mistake ,without bracing is for it to open since there is no support in the centre once the sill is disturbed,and the side sags slightly. I see you have a support in the centre,its possible that you have inadvertently pushed the centre up,thus closing the gap. It may be this simple to remedy,hopefully. but you may have to do a lot more. I once had the same problem with an mgb.but since it was a keeper ,had it for years afterwards,and I knew the actual chassis and suspension was ok,I took a grinder to the door edge and made the door fit the gap.but since its not your car may be not an option for you,but it could be done.

[firedrake1942]

Grinding the door is a solution but 4 mil is a lot !, I think as little unpicking as possible around the sill, b post and side as you suggest as a first step to see if gentle jacking (You do not want to buckle the rear panel ) will move the bottom of the b post and the rear section the required amount, That said if the hinge post is not in place first you may be unpicking , rewelding only to have to do more adjustment later.

[firedrake1942]

did you ever sort this and if so how ?

[scutter]

I've not yet sorted it, kinda ran away and did the drivers sill and boot aperture.

Jacking isn't going to work as you can see the rear panel flexing, so i've done the manly thing and left it for a bit.

Regards Dan.

[firedrake1942]

I think unpicking on that side is the only good course, lot of work but .......