Hello Folks,
I had trawled through the threads about removing the door-lock assembly, but found varying results that all had some problems.
I had to remove my door-lock to get at the barrel to read off the key number (my car came with mismatched locks - only the Ignition key was original, and the only key supplied).
How to do this - PART 1.
Tools required
7/16" hex head socket and ratchet,
Cruciform Screwdriver,
3/16" Flat-blade screwdriver,
fine nosed pliers,
chair to sit on,
nitrile gloves,
paper towelling,
Hammer and pin punches if removing the barrel to read off the key number.
(1) Remove the door check-strap (the one that you use to pull the door closed.
(2) Remove the window winder and the door lever.
(3) Using the flat blade screwdriver, carefully prise off the inner door trim.
(4) Undo the 4 cross-head screws that hold the leading top of the window frame together
and extract the angle piece (you will need to pull out part of the channel rubber/felt inserts to do this).
(5) Prise out the 3 rubber caps from the end of the door, that cover the channel bolts (retain for reuse).
(6) Using the 7/16" socket, remove the 3 set-screws holding the rear window channel to the door
(7) make sure the rear window channel can now swivel - it will NOT come out of the frame as there is a "lump" of some sort stopping it from doing so.
Remove the split pin and washer from the door actuator rod and door-lock "pin"
Removing Driver's door lock withou dismantling window frame
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Removing Driver's door lock withou dismantling window frame
'50 Low-light with 918 Side-valve engine,
'51 High-light with Side-valve 918 engine,
'55 4-dr with 803 engine,
'56 Traveller with 1098 engine.
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- Minor Addict
- Posts: 978
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 5:01 pm
- Location: Farnborough, Hampshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Removing Driver's door lock withou dismantling window frame
Hello Folks,
I had trawled through the threads about removing the door-lock assembly, but found varying results that all had some problems.
I had to remove my door-lock to get at the barrel to read off the key number (my car came with mismatched locks - only the Ignition key was original, and the only key supplied).
How to do this - PART 2. Now undo and remove the 3 hex-head (in my case one was flat-blade and there is metal fatigue) lock retaining screws Remove the external door escutcheon plate as this hinders the removal of the door lock - using the flat-blade screwdriver, winkle off the retaining clip. Now wiggle the door handle through teh door skin and around the angled (loose) rear window channel Extract the door handle mechanism I had an added fault, on my door-lock (apart from not having a key) and that was a fulcrum "pin" that was about to be lost
I had trawled through the threads about removing the door-lock assembly, but found varying results that all had some problems.
I had to remove my door-lock to get at the barrel to read off the key number (my car came with mismatched locks - only the Ignition key was original, and the only key supplied).
How to do this - PART 2. Now undo and remove the 3 hex-head (in my case one was flat-blade and there is metal fatigue) lock retaining screws Remove the external door escutcheon plate as this hinders the removal of the door lock - using the flat-blade screwdriver, winkle off the retaining clip. Now wiggle the door handle through teh door skin and around the angled (loose) rear window channel Extract the door handle mechanism I had an added fault, on my door-lock (apart from not having a key) and that was a fulcrum "pin" that was about to be lost
'50 Low-light with 918 Side-valve engine,
'51 High-light with Side-valve 918 engine,
'55 4-dr with 803 engine,
'56 Traveller with 1098 engine.
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 978
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 5:01 pm
- Location: Farnborough, Hampshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Removing Driver's door lock withou dismantling window frame
Hello Folks,
I had trawled through the threads about removing the door-lock assembly, but found varying results that all had some problems.
I had to remove my door-lock to get at the barrel to read off the key number (my car came with mismatched locks - only the Ignition key was original, and the only key supplied).
How to do this - PART 3 - looks like the current MMOC website only allows 5 photos at each upload. A Very Great Shame that the original website's photos were not migrated with the topics to the new site as a wealth of pictorial information has been lost!
The fulcrum pin Pressed back into place Assembly on a "workmate" I made the mistake of fitting the outer escutcheon plate first - seemed easier. Do NOT do this as the plate reduces the size of the opening in the outer door-skin so you can't pass the handle through. Leave the plate off until after refitting the lock assembly.
Secure the lock and rear window channel in the reverse order to dismantling.
FIt the escutcheon plate after securing the lock Refit the rear channel to the top of the frame - I took the opportunity, here, to fit a new rear window channel felt insert as I didn't have one!
Use silicone grease, on the back of the insert, to get it in the channel guide - this took longer to do than most of the previous operations.
Hope that this will be of use for the future.
Regards, George.
I had trawled through the threads about removing the door-lock assembly, but found varying results that all had some problems.
I had to remove my door-lock to get at the barrel to read off the key number (my car came with mismatched locks - only the Ignition key was original, and the only key supplied).
How to do this - PART 3 - looks like the current MMOC website only allows 5 photos at each upload. A Very Great Shame that the original website's photos were not migrated with the topics to the new site as a wealth of pictorial information has been lost!
The fulcrum pin Pressed back into place Assembly on a "workmate" I made the mistake of fitting the outer escutcheon plate first - seemed easier. Do NOT do this as the plate reduces the size of the opening in the outer door-skin so you can't pass the handle through. Leave the plate off until after refitting the lock assembly.
Secure the lock and rear window channel in the reverse order to dismantling.
FIt the escutcheon plate after securing the lock Refit the rear channel to the top of the frame - I took the opportunity, here, to fit a new rear window channel felt insert as I didn't have one!
Use silicone grease, on the back of the insert, to get it in the channel guide - this took longer to do than most of the previous operations.
Hope that this will be of use for the future.
Regards, George.
'50 Low-light with 918 Side-valve engine,
'51 High-light with Side-valve 918 engine,
'55 4-dr with 803 engine,
'56 Traveller with 1098 engine.
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 457
- Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 1:45 am
- Location: Manchester
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Removing Driver's door lock withou dismantling window frame
Brilliant step by step guide there! i no for next time.. always removed the full frame.. everyday is a learning day
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- Minor Addict
- Posts: 978
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 5:01 pm
- Location: Farnborough, Hampshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Removing Driver's door lock withou dismantling window frame
Thank you, its remembering to take photos as you go.
George.
'50 Low-light with 918 Side-valve engine,
'51 High-light with Side-valve 918 engine,
'55 4-dr with 803 engine,
'56 Traveller with 1098 engine.
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:05 pm
- Location: West Yorkshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Removing Driver's door lock withou dismantling window frame
Can I just add that it is most appreciated when someone takes the trouble to do this on the forum.
I will be keeping a note of it for future reference.
Thanks
Phil
I will be keeping a note of it for future reference.
Thanks
Phil