Rust

[Chris]

Hi,
I'm just wondering what ways people suggest for removing rust, and rust prevention. I think this may have been mentioned before somewhere, but I can't find it.

My moggy has a fair bit of cosmetic rust, but I'm a bit worried that it could become structural after a while. Someone suggested to me that I should cover the rust in waxoyl for the moment, and then to do a better job in the summer.

I also heard that some rust removers can damage older paintwork, mine is a 1966 minor, could there be anything to watch out for with this paint (I don't believe it has ever been resprayed).


Thanks for any help,
Chris

[Cam]

If you want a temporary solution then dry the area and paint it with Hammarite.

The best option for repair is to cut (or grind) the old rust out and replace it with fresh metal.

A few people use filler or fibreglass but if you want a proper job doing (ie. keeping the car for a long time) then I would not recommend it.

You should only EVER use filler for smoothing the surface of repairs or dents that you can't get perfectly straight.

How to look at is is: If you leave rust there underneath and cover it, it will be back!!

I have not had much success with rust 'prevention' remedes, but if you do use them then leave them to react for a LONG time and then clean the area down after treatment with thinners. But by far the best method is to remove the rust altogether.

[Willie]

Cam is right...there is no better way than to remove the
rust back to shiny steel (a rotary disc in the electric drill)
if this leaves some pitted rust spots I would recommend
JENOLITE rust killer,this is based on Phosphoric acid and
converts rust into a passive Phosphate IF used as per
instructions. The rust to worry about is that which is coming
through from the INSIDE. This works on the iceberg principle.
What you see is about 1/10th of the total!! The important
thing to remember is that, especially at this time of the year,
it is vital to get some paint on to the bare metal as soon as
it is possible after treatment AND Primer is NOT waterproof!!
Willie

[Cam]

Yes, Willie, I forgot about Jenolite, I have not used it myself but I have heard good reports.

a mate of mine did a VW campervan in primer and drove it around for a month - and sure enough it ended up a lovely shade of surface rust!!!

I have been a victim of the 'iceberg principle' many times, as once you start prodding the hole usually ends up about 10 times the size you started with!!

To be honest, Chris, if you are serious about Moggies, or classics in general then I suggest that you invest in a welder and angle grinder and get some practice in.

It's actually not that difficult once you get used to it and you will be surprised how many times it comes in useful.

Plus you don't have to keep worrying about structural rust and expensive repair bills, just cut it out and weld a new piece in!!

[Chris]

Thanks for that advice,
I know someone who's a welder by trade, so I will try and ask for some lessons.

I think I'm going to have many more questions to ask in the near future.

Thanks again,
Chris

[Chris Morley]

Chris - where is this cosmetic rust? I would only use this description for door bottoms, boot lids, small isolated patches on the body and the edges of the wings (but not where they edge against the body). Most other areas of rust do have a structural significance.

Coating undersides with used engine oil or waxoyl may prevent further surface deterioration this Winter, but it's not a long term solution. Otherwise, if you have a long MOT wait under dry warm weather returns. Then start prodding around and hope you don't find flaky or holed metal. If you do it will need replacement. Don't wait until a week before the MOT expires, plan well ahead & start saving now.

[Chris]

Hi Chris,
The rust is mainly on the panels, there are a few very small areas on the body, and the chassis and the bulkhead are really quite good.

It's got a new MOT on it, so I shall wait untill the summer, before any cutting and welding.

Thanks,
Chris

[fweddy]

Here is what I found to work well.

Surface rust; Sand back and treat with Jenolite, (Be careful how you wash off the jenolite, Wahsing off with water, which they reccommend, can cause the rust to appear again in a real short time.) I treated and let dry then used a sanding disk on the grinder and buffed the film off. Not what they reccommend but worked well.

Rust spots; For small holes etc dig around and get as much rust out as possible and buff with a wire buff, then fizz the hole up with the welder, (careful on flat panels as the heat may buckle them.) Then use sanding disk on grinder to slowly bring back to flat again.

Rust patches; Whop the whole patch out and weld a new bit in then resurface the area.

[kevin s]

I've been using bilt hamber hydrate 80 on some of my products after it was recomended by a pro. much the same as above can only be used on sound but rust metal, clean as much rust off as you can then paint it on, the blurb says it chemically bonds to and encapsulates any remaining rust, seems to have worked well everywhere I have used it so far.

[les]

Maybe that wasn’t around 17 years ago !

[kevin s]

A senior moment!

[les]

[Murrayminor]

This must be one of the oldest thread revivals around

I wonder if the rusty car is still around?

Is Chris still a member?

So many questions....

[pgp001]

Chris was last active on here in 2005, so maybe the rust removal did not go to plan and he sold the car.

Phil

[les]

So many old names, they just fade away.

[Sambaguido]

My best experience is "Owatrol" oil.
You can get it in spray cans or you can brush it.
Every color will cling perfectly and "Owatrol" stops the rust.