Where to start

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Bigrob
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Where to start

Post by Bigrob »

Evening all, this is my first post after having my project delivered this morning!

20201015_121745.jpg
20201015_121745.jpg (3.62 MiB) Viewed 2382 times

On initial inspection, straight off the bat I know it needs:
-Front and rear floors
-sills both sides
-hinge panels both sides
-o/s/f floor to inner arch
-both front chassis rails
-cross member
-n/s/f tie plate


So essentially, full bottom half.

Now is there a sensible order to cutting and sticking? Or just pull it off and go for it?


Cheers all, looking forward to getting stuck in


Rob
1968 Trafalgar Blue 2 door- Pig
1970 Met Police 2 door- Panda
kevin s
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Re: Where to start

Post by kevin s »

To a certain extent it will depend on how you are doing it ( ie on a jig, a rollover frame or on the ground).
Before you fo anything take loads of pictures and measurements, particularly check how the doors fit and note anything which looks distorted bodged or damaged.

I would then strip thd trim and mechanicals out, brace the door apperture and base of pillar then set too the sills pillars and floors (and probably front spring hangers) one side at a time . Put the doors on before you weld the outer pillars in and do it with a couple of shims between the hinge and pillar so you have some adjustment.

Next up I would fit the crossmember using the original chassis legs to align it.

Next up I would do the chassis legs and panels around the engine compartment again doing one side st at a time using tbe other side for measurements.

Finaly I would do anything around the rear roof / gutters and closures.

How you are doing it is obviously the main factor, the key thing is to keep enough to stop it distorting and have a referance point to align things from.

Take a look at some of our restoration threads and you will get a feel of how some of us have done it.
Bigrob
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Re: Where to start

Post by Bigrob »

Thanks Kevin I really appreciate it.

I intended to purchase a rollover frame, either the hub mounted curved roller type, or failing that the A-frame-bolt to bumper mount jobbo.

I've had enough scalp burns from welding under cars to warrant buying one.

The doors currently sit low due to the hinge panels, I already intended to cross brace the door gaps.

The n/s/f tie plate has basically gone soft too
1968 Trafalgar Blue 2 door- Pig
1970 Met Police 2 door- Panda
kevin s
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Re: Where to start

Post by kevin s »

To be honest I'm not sure the hub mounted roller is going to work that well for you as you are going to need to work extensively around the front and rear suspension mountings, a spit would probably work better for such extensive work.
Bigrob
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Re: Where to start

Post by Bigrob »

Yeah I did think this after getting underneath today. A bumper-mount mounted spit wont work either so i'm a little stuck as to where to go,

Besides just tipping it over onto a mattress
1968 Trafalgar Blue 2 door- Pig
1970 Met Police 2 door- Panda
Murrayminor
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Re: Where to start

Post by Murrayminor »

Hi
Although I have a rollover jig I haven't used it as my car was too weak.
I'm taking it step by step cutting out the rust and replacing it as I go along.

I have some short video clips which may assist you.

Regards

Dermot.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsbZsl ... Z08ArjvOjA
Proud owner of my first Morris Minor
philthehill
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Re: Where to start

Post by philthehill »

I would suggest that the two threads currently running on this story are combined - having the two threads staggers and breaks the story line.
Phil

Bigrob
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Re: Where to start

Post by Bigrob »

philthehill wrote: Sat Oct 17, 2020 12:32 pm I would suggest that the two threads currently running on this story are combined - having the two threads staggers and breaks the story line.
Phil
Yep, good thinking Phil.



Thanks for that Dermot, I'll take a look later on.


Conversation continues here at "Pig the 1967 2 door"

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=72796
1968 Trafalgar Blue 2 door- Pig
1970 Met Police 2 door- Panda
culp
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Re: Where to start

Post by culp »

I had something similar with my Traveller. I stripped it down completely, everything off the bodyshell and then you can tip the whole thing on it's side fairly easily. I didn't use a roller as they mount on the bumper brackets and mine were too far gone.

I did the floors first, then the sills. You can get floors with the inner sill fixed to them already, I tried that on one side and found it very difficult to fit. On the other side, I did the floor then the inner sill and it was much easier. Cutting away the floor can affect the front part of the rear spring hangers. Mine were knackered anyway so I had to cut them out. I cut away the vertical part of the repair panel at the back of the rear floor as the seatbox was (one of the few bits that was) ok.

Underneath I needed to do the same as you. The middle bit of the cross member with the big hole in it for the prop shaft was a fiend to get out! I wound up cutting away a perfectly sound bit of the floor because I couldn't get an angle grinder or a drill onto the spot welds. If the middle bit of the cross member is ok then go for the outer repair section but go very carefully as they affect how the torsion bars line up. The chassis legs went in fine and were relatively easy although should have made a neater job round were the torsion bar goes in as it made fitting the torsion bar difficult.

The scuttle panels are really difficult to get in and you can do a fair bit of collateral damage. I needed to replace the inner wing as well which made it much easier to do.
Bigrob
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Re: Where to start

Post by Bigrob »

culp wrote: Mon Nov 09, 2020 6:25 pm I had something similar with my Traveller. I stripped it down completely, everything off the bodyshell and then you can tip the whole thing on it's side fairly easily. I didn't use a roller as they mount on the bumper brackets and mine were too far gone.

I did the floors first, then the sills. You can get floors with the inner sill fixed to them already, I tried that on one side and found it very difficult to fit. On the other side, I did the floor then the inner sill and it was much easier. Cutting away the floor can affect the front part of the rear spring hangers. Mine were knackered anyway so I had to cut them out. I cut away the vertical part of the repair panel at the back of the rear floor as the seatbox was (one of the few bits that was) ok.

Underneath I needed to do the same as you. The middle bit of the cross member with the big hole in it for the prop shaft was a fiend to get out! I wound up cutting away a perfectly sound bit of the floor because I couldn't get an angle grinder or a drill onto the spot welds. If the middle bit of the cross member is ok then go for the outer repair section but go very carefully as they affect how the torsion bars line up. The chassis legs went in fine and were relatively easy although should have made a neater job round were the torsion bar goes in as it made fitting the torsion bar difficult.
Yeah it sounds very similar. I think as you say there isn't really enough strength to 'rotisserie' the car.

I'll be bracing up to tip it over hopefully in the next couple of weeks
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1970 Met Police 2 door- Panda
hanvyj
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Re: Where to start

Post by hanvyj »

The scaffolding pole through the centre rotisserie has been working well for me doing sill and floor edge repairs. Goes through the battery hole, which is usually pretty rust free. Bolted a bit of old bed frame along the rear seat opening to support the back and two A frames out of some structural timber, seems strong enough. Bit difficult getting it high enough though!

I ended up having to buy the scaffolding pole new, which was a pain, as you can usually get them really cheap on ebay and not many places sell a single pole for DIY! Still, cheaper than most rollover jigs I suspect.

Image

Does have a little 'bow' to it but seems sturdy enough:
Image
SUE482
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Re: Where to start

Post by SUE482 »

Hi, as Kevin says look at the restoration section there are plenty of ideas and advice in there, here is my contribution which might help :o
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=34278
Best of luck Ian
Should be ready for tea time.
Bigrob
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Re: Where to start

Post by Bigrob »

Thanks guys.

I've recently taken a step back from work for a few months so I'm about ready to get some steel ordered to build a frame
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1970 Met Police 2 door- Panda
Redmoggy
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Re: Where to start

Post by Redmoggy »

If the doors do not fit properly now then you need to tweak everything until they do, then brace the aperture. Otherwise you risk bracing the body out of alignment.
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