Kick plates/Sill Finisher Bolts/Nut removal.

[Chief]

The attachment limit too as well I guess

PSill12.JPG (1.24 MiB) Viewed 539 times

PSill13.JPG (1.08 MiB) Viewed 539 times

PSill14.JPG (2.09 MiB) Viewed 539 times

PSill16.JPG (1.69 MiB) Viewed 539 times

PSill17.JPG (2.26 MiB) Viewed 539 times

[Chief]

And finally:

PSill17.JPG (2.26 MiB) Viewed 539 times

PSill18.JPG (1.75 MiB) Viewed 539 times

PSill19.JPG (2.2 MiB) Viewed 539 times

I did discover that Morris were future planning by designing the sill holes to perfectly fit an iPhone into for camera taking, though for some reason my flash didn't always go off even though it was set to Always On.

The driver side B pillar bottom in the sill is quite crusty to the touch.

The worst side in terms of (10cm length!) bits of metal was the passenger side.

I can't get the passenger front door open enough to get the kick plate off due to the cars (currently stuck) position so those sill shots had to be taken from the rear.

If you just clicked here and want to see the photos from the beginning...
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=73912#p671048

[Chief]

To answer my own question from above and on the off chance anyone does come across this thread in the future and wants to see how I de-rusted the sills (drivers side only so far, but passenger will be similar) since all the searches I did brought up sill replacement not cleaning (bar cavity waxing/waxoyling):

Small sections of coarse emery paper.
Fingers through the (meant to be there by design) sill holes.
Rub (also rub skin off hands)
Vacuum clean out large chunks
Magnet for small chunks
Small screwdriver for poking more holes.
Paint in rather garish yellow hammerite spraypaint (sills look awful now, but it was the only paint I had to hand).

Not the best method, but anything to slow down the rot as soon as possible, couldn't really use my rust convertor/remover due to the access.