The
A post is the vertical section , on the body, in front of the leading edge of the door.
The
B post is the vertical section, on the body,at the rear of the front door.
If it is a four door car... the final post at the rear. back edge of the rear passenger doors, will be the
C post.
On a Morris MInor monocoque car body ( i.e one without a separate chassis ) they are typically of a " box like " construction for the greatest strength, to support heavy doors and to stop the whole body crumbling in a crash.
The big nail trick will allow you to move the hinge ( with door attached to it ) away from the A post.The tip of the nail pushed into the box section of the A post stops the metal plate falling.When the gap is 3/5 cm ( 1/ 2 " ) away from the A post ( door still hanging on the back end of the nail ) you can now put one of the removed bolts back and tighten it into the plate.
Two bits of bent wire 90, degrees ( a bit of a metal coat hanger is ideal )are required to " fish" for the holes of the unseen plate within the A post.The pattern of the bolt holes in the metal plate is triangular. matching the hinge configuration, so once two bolts are removed and you start to loosen the third one, the plate will move / twist until it finds it's centre of gravity.That's why you will have to " fish " through the three holes in the A post to get it back to the correct position.
When you fit the new door, it's big nails through the hinges already mounted on the door.Line up the plate with your wire hooks ,leaving them in situ.Offer up the door, pushing the nails right into the A post through the metal plate.Leave your gap
sufficient this time to remove the two retaining bolts ( plates in door retained by the nails ).Close the gap and fit two bolts to
each hinge.Remove the two nails and then fit the last bolts...top and bottom.
Don't tighten the bolts right up tight as this stage as you will want to adjust the door position in the aperture.Get the bolts tight enough to hold the door so that it doesn't sink under it's own weight.That way you can push and pull .. until you get it in the right position.Then fully tighten up.
All this hassle is because ....the plate within the A post should sit / be held in situ/ move about in... by two metal channels top and bottom of the plate.Surprise , surprise after several decades of moisture on unprotected metal, on the majority of cars the bottom ledges have disintegrated/ fallen off.The first notice that you get that this has happened is the clonk you hear when you remove the last bolt.
To get the plate out you have to open up the A post , like a tin of sardines and bash the metal back, having welded in a new ledge.Welded up the hole,rust prevention, primer paint , top coats.replace the wing, front lights wiring, etc., etc
I think you get the general picture.
Door cards
Remove the ones from the "new " doors first.Better to damage them first rather than your correct colour good ones.
There are correct trim removing tools available but with care you can get away with large flat screwdrivers or small old chisels.
The sprung clips holding the door cards in every 10/15 cm ( 5/6 inches ) need to be popped out.Gently lift the door card edge to locate the bottom corner ones to start with.Screwdriver/ chisel each side of the clip and gently lever the card up.You may want to protect paintworkd with a cloth / rag.Work around the perimeter of the door.. it will get easier until all are removed.
You will see how the springs are inserted through holes in the hardboard backing.Clean up any rusty metal clips, replacing clips if broken from the psares you now have.When you are ready to install put a smear of Vaseline on the springs.Hang from the top of the door and have some thin nose pliers to hand.You will have to move/ twist the spring into the correct postion to engage in the door holes.Once in the right postion "slap " the door card with the heel of your hand.There should be a sastifying
noise when it snaps into postion.If you try to force things with the spring in the wrong position you will damage the hardboard and possibly the vynil material on the face of the card.Read expensive to replace !
Spare bit !
I don't immediately recognise this bit I must confess.
When you are as old as I am you learn to accept that you don't know every thing.I would look at the perimeter of the door, trying to marry up the screw/ bolts holes.Something around the lock/ catch area ? It must be a re-in forcing plate of some kind.
One of the experts on the Forum will be along soon I hope.You never stop learning.
" plus I'm a girl "
With a wife, two daughter in laws, two granddaughters and several nieces I'm all for the equality of the sexes.
Good luck with it, take it slowly and safely more importantly.
Bob