Oil Gauge
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Oil Gauge
Hello all.
I have a 1968 Morris Minor 1000, 4 door, 1098. I have limited mechanical knowledge but try to do all I can myself.
I have recently purchased two gauges (Smiths Replicas) a water and oil pressure both mechanical. I understand that I need a T piece for the engine block to connect the new feed and existing oil sensor, the water gauge has a line and sensor already fitted so again looking into this I found that I just use the blank feed below pump to attach. The oil gauge has no pipe so this is what I need. However my dilemma is the oil pipe and connections?? BSP? NPT? The gauge purchased states it has a 1/8NPT thread so the question is what connections/T piece/pipe and sizes do I need to fit this? Also do I need any sort of sealant, washers etc.
Please help !! I'm beginning to confuse my self with so much on line, I think I''m making a relatively simple task harder!!
I have a 1968 Morris Minor 1000, 4 door, 1098. I have limited mechanical knowledge but try to do all I can myself.
I have recently purchased two gauges (Smiths Replicas) a water and oil pressure both mechanical. I understand that I need a T piece for the engine block to connect the new feed and existing oil sensor, the water gauge has a line and sensor already fitted so again looking into this I found that I just use the blank feed below pump to attach. The oil gauge has no pipe so this is what I need. However my dilemma is the oil pipe and connections?? BSP? NPT? The gauge purchased states it has a 1/8NPT thread so the question is what connections/T piece/pipe and sizes do I need to fit this? Also do I need any sort of sealant, washers etc.
Please help !! I'm beginning to confuse my self with so much on line, I think I''m making a relatively simple task harder!!
- Attachments
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- Fitting for oil gauge
- Screenshot 2021-03-10 at 10.19.39.png (782.97 KiB) Viewed 2930 times
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- Water and Oil gauge
- Screenshot 2021-03-10 at 10.19.25.png (2.12 MiB) Viewed 2930 times
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Oil Gauge
Hello, I've fitted these sorts of gauges to my Traveller, which had a 1098 engine fitted, by previous owners, in 1986.
I'll dig out some info for you, but I do remember that, if you want to keep the green "oil light" in your speedo working, then you do need the 'T' piece fitted. You have to take the existing oil pressure switch out, fit the 'T' piece, refit the pressure switch and connect up the gauge to the new outlet. I seem to remember that the trickiest bit was getting the pipe through the bulkhead. After drilling the hole, don't forget to paint the cut metal surface.
Fitting the 'T'-piece can be awkward as the distributor is in the way - next pic. I'll be back,
George.
I'll dig out some info for you, but I do remember that, if you want to keep the green "oil light" in your speedo working, then you do need the 'T' piece fitted. You have to take the existing oil pressure switch out, fit the 'T' piece, refit the pressure switch and connect up the gauge to the new outlet. I seem to remember that the trickiest bit was getting the pipe through the bulkhead. After drilling the hole, don't forget to paint the cut metal surface.
Fitting the 'T'-piece can be awkward as the distributor is in the way - next pic. I'll be back,
George.
'50 Low-light with 918 Side-valve engine,
'51 High-light with Side-valve 918 engine,
'55 4-dr with 803 engine,
'56 Traveller with 1098 engine.
Re: Oil Gauge
Stanmo ,
The A Series engine featured in any number of classic cars , so sourcing the bits shouldn't present any problem.
A couple of examples of suppliers : -
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/y-piece-o ... ib748.html
Check the integrity of the leather washer at the back of the oil gauge. If in any doubt ... replace
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/washer-se ... k4936.html
The last thing you want after installation is an oil leak dripping from the gauge.
For getting a really good seal on the metal threads you need a Brake and Airline sealant : -
An example being ,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-D572- ... SwTyxfOcif
Other suppliers and similar products are available.
CHECK the small print that the product is "oil resistant "
Don't forget rubber gromments where electrical cable / pipe lines go through the bulkhead.Do not over bend
the pipe. Bending and re bending will start inducing metal fatigue , so plan the route and practice with a wire coat hanger beforehand, if that helps.
Bob
The A Series engine featured in any number of classic cars , so sourcing the bits shouldn't present any problem.
A couple of examples of suppliers : -
http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/y-piece-o ... ib748.html
Check the integrity of the leather washer at the back of the oil gauge. If in any doubt ... replace
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/washer-se ... k4936.html
The last thing you want after installation is an oil leak dripping from the gauge.
For getting a really good seal on the metal threads you need a Brake and Airline sealant : -
An example being ,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-D572- ... SwTyxfOcif
Other suppliers and similar products are available.
CHECK the small print that the product is "oil resistant "
Don't forget rubber gromments where electrical cable / pipe lines go through the bulkhead.Do not over bend
the pipe. Bending and re bending will start inducing metal fatigue , so plan the route and practice with a wire coat hanger beforehand, if that helps.
Bob
Re: Oil Gauge
Thank you for responses so far. Good advice and guidance as always.
Never even heard of brake and airline sealant, so really appreciate the tip.
So slowly pulling my shopping list together and planning my fitting. In regards to the NPT and BSP am I correct in thinking the engine will be BSP? Trying to get my head round these thread sizes, as want to make sure I order right ones and don't ruin what I have ?
Never even heard of brake and airline sealant, so really appreciate the tip.
So slowly pulling my shopping list together and planning my fitting. In regards to the NPT and BSP am I correct in thinking the engine will be BSP? Trying to get my head round these thread sizes, as want to make sure I order right ones and don't ruin what I have ?
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Oil Gauge
I would forget the Tee adaptor and modify the oil pipe banjo bolt just near it assuming you have suitable drills and taps.
This thread from last year shows how to do it, I ditched the adaptor and did mine like this and it is much easier to assemble.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=60334&start=20
Phil P
This thread from last year shows how to do it, I ditched the adaptor and did mine like this and it is much easier to assemble.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=60334&start=20
Phil P
Re: Oil Gauge
Thanks Phil, that sounds a better solution, I’ll look into this before I start drilling, confidence is always a hindrance
Re: Oil Gauge
Hi George I’ve decided to stick with T piece as drilling through the other bolt seems a little beyond me. In regards to parts what do I exactly need? I’ve looked on ESM and narrowed it down to ACC 203,204 and 205 but the gauge fittings worry me. As mentioned I got the gauge from India as a smiths replica but the thread on the gauges states it’s a 1/8 NTP ? It also has a concave inside as seen in image. Do I need an adapter to connect the hose to this? Also is there grommets to seal the joins and also reseal existing oil gauge sensor? I’m struggling to understand all the varying sizes etc.gtt1951 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:59 am Hello, I've fitted these sorts of gauges to my Traveller, which had a 1098 engine fitted, by previous owners, in 1986.
I'll dig out some info for you, but I do remember that, if you want to keep the green "oil light" in your speedo working, then you do need the 'T' piece fitted. You have to take the existing oil pressure switch out, fit the 'T' piece, refit the pressure switch and connect up the gauge to the new outlet. I seem to remember that the trickiest bit was getting the pipe through the bulkhead.
Bulk-head hole + copper pipe + rubber grommet.jpg
After drilling the hole, don't forget to paint the cut metal surface.
Fitting the 'T'-piece can be awkward as the distributor is in the way - next pic.
Image1892.jpg
I'll be back,
George.
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- Minor Addict
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- Location: West Yorkshire
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Re: Oil Gauge
I can drill and tap your banjo bolt if you pay for the return postage.
Phil P
Phil P
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Oil Gauge
Stanmo, sorry about the delay in responding, but I don't get ANY notifications at all now from posts.
I have a feeling that I obtained my pipe and joints from either Bullmotiff (now subsumed into ESM) or from Charles Ware.
The Charles Ware website link, for oil pressure pipes is below
https://www.morrisminor.org.uk/parts?q= ... e-size=all
It doesn't state the pipe threads, but you can always phone and ask.
George.
I have a feeling that I obtained my pipe and joints from either Bullmotiff (now subsumed into ESM) or from Charles Ware.
The Charles Ware website link, for oil pressure pipes is below
https://www.morrisminor.org.uk/parts?q= ... e-size=all
It doesn't state the pipe threads, but you can always phone and ask.
George.
'50 Low-light with 918 Side-valve engine,
'51 High-light with Side-valve 918 engine,
'55 4-dr with 803 engine,
'56 Traveller with 1098 engine.
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- Minor Addict
- Posts: 978
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 5:01 pm
- Location: Farnborough, Hampshire
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Re: Oil Gauge
Moss Europe do adapter parts and "hoses" (plastic), but they do state 1/8" NTPF - this reminds me that the 1/8" thread comes in "tapered" and "parallel" versions, like in Compressed Air fittings.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogse ... sure+gauge
From your photo of the back of the oil pressure gauge, it looks like a parallel thread - but you would need to check with a calliper as there could be distortion in the photo.
Or, if in doubt, abandon the Indian copy and get the complete kit from Charles Ware (with copper pipe).
George.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogse ... sure+gauge
From your photo of the back of the oil pressure gauge, it looks like a parallel thread - but you would need to check with a calliper as there could be distortion in the photo.
Or, if in doubt, abandon the Indian copy and get the complete kit from Charles Ware (with copper pipe).
George.
'50 Low-light with 918 Side-valve engine,
'51 High-light with Side-valve 918 engine,
'55 4-dr with 803 engine,
'56 Traveller with 1098 engine.
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- Minor Addict
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- Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:51 pm
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Re: Oil Gauge
this is what i did last year.
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Oil Gauge
Which engine is that?
George.
George.
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Oil Gauge
It was a 1098. I've done it to all of my cars. You can do it to any a series engine.
Drill a hole down the centre. Think drill size was 11mm and tap with a 1/8 npt tap. Any local machine should be able to do it for you for beer money while you wait. Or buy yourself
Drill a hole down the centre. Think drill size was 11mm and tap with a 1/8 npt tap. Any local machine should be able to do it for you for beer money while you wait. Or buy yourself
Last edited by ampwhu on Sun Mar 28, 2021 11:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Oil Gauge
Or you could purchase one of these:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI ... 2749.l2649
I have ordered one of these for myself so will be able to give more details when it arrives.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI ... 2749.l2649
I have ordered one of these for myself so will be able to give more details when it arrives.
Last edited by philthehill on Sun Mar 28, 2021 11:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Oil Gauge
Never seen one before Phil. Normal banjo would cost the same. That's a bargain
Re: Oil Gauge
Sorry not to respond earlier. Thank you for all your advice and Phil the offer of drilling the bolt for me.
After searching I found a 1/8 NTP TO 1/8Bsp adapter for the rear of the gauge. I also managed to fit the T piece and connect as instructed(also was sure to put a grommet in the bulk head to protect pipes. As a newbie to this I am quite pleased with the end result. All seems to be working fine and from a cold start gauge read 60 psi dropping to 50 when warm. Haven’t took it for a test drive as yet. I cut some aluminium to fit the existing glove box and sprayed to look tidy. Hopefully this will all work out with no issues.
Thank you again for all your help
After searching I found a 1/8 NTP TO 1/8Bsp adapter for the rear of the gauge. I also managed to fit the T piece and connect as instructed(also was sure to put a grommet in the bulk head to protect pipes. As a newbie to this I am quite pleased with the end result. All seems to be working fine and from a cold start gauge read 60 psi dropping to 50 when warm. Haven’t took it for a test drive as yet. I cut some aluminium to fit the existing glove box and sprayed to look tidy. Hopefully this will all work out with no issues.
Thank you again for all your help
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