Pick up Restoration (Part 1)
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- Minor Legend
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2731
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm
- Location: Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2731
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm
- Location: Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
So Blast Treat of Arundel (Togs old mates) don't die laughing, or totally disappear in a massive dust cloud, I'm scraping away all this soft crumbly stuff, not rust, more like some kind of filler, anyway, just crumbles to dust now...<br><br>
Last edited by davidmiles on Mon May 18, 2009 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2731
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm
- Location: Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2731
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm
- Location: Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2731
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm
- Location: Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
having never actually seen a healthy chassis up close before, I can only compare it to pictures Ive been sent, the insert that forms the horizontal flanges at the top, in mine looks like its crumbled away, but there is also some kind of ceramic material, filler or preservative of some kind, thats crumbled away too, the rust among it is different and easy to spot.
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]
Ive seen caked on fine mud/dust like that under my old MG magnette.
The whole underside/axle/springs etc were covered in it and it had formed a thick crust within the closed sill sections. I reckon mine was slurry from a farm or from a very dusty drive!!!
If its definately not brown rust or magnetite it wont be attracted to a magnet.
To check your chassis find an unrusted section - theres usually one somewhere! and measure metal thickness. you can then drill 1/8" test holes where you think there may be corrosion/thinning and check the thickness with a depth gauge.
The whole underside/axle/springs etc were covered in it and it had formed a thick crust within the closed sill sections. I reckon mine was slurry from a farm or from a very dusty drive!!!
If its definately not brown rust or magnetite it wont be attracted to a magnet.
To check your chassis find an unrusted section - theres usually one somewhere! and measure metal thickness. you can then drill 1/8" test holes where you think there may be corrosion/thinning and check the thickness with a depth gauge.
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- Minor Legend
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Well despite hard times, Blast Treat of Arundel are doing alright, went along there today to check on work times, and they have seven days of shotblasting work, I'd have to take my chassis there and leave it there for over a week. Well done Blast Treat. I showed them a picture of the chassis and they advised me to get any rubberised rust preventative material off myself, the shot sand just bounces off. Its only good for paint and rust.<br><br>
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]
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- Minor Legend
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Ah, thanks for confirming! that's what I first thought, but seeing the pick-up cab with the same roof as the traveller, I thought maybe the traveller could come apart like that too.DAVIDMCCULLOUGH wrote:No Rich, just the vans and pick ups had a separate chassis. Your traveller is unitary construction, each part depends on the rest of it being sound for strength.
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- Minor Legend
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- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm
- Location: Sussex
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2731
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm
- Location: Sussex
- MMOC Member: No
I realise now that in the few days before I recovered this project, while I was spending time clearing out the garage of bikes and garden rubbish, I should have whitewashed the walls. The light levels would be improved 100%. I'll have to get this done before I start any welding work.
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smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]