Mini Carb...

Post by **Cam** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:00 pm

I would set them to 15 thou myself, but down to 12 thou would probably be OK too.

Post by **sii803** » Tue Feb 08, 2005 2:06 am

Nikki,
I have fitted a 1.5SU onto an 1100 (actually a Morris 1100 which were once very popular here) and fitted extractors (tubular exhaust) when I did it.
I'm not sure if the minor 1100 has the same cam but I think it did. Anyway the conversion was thouroughly worth it. The car was far less of a tractor and had some top end. Made more of an improvement over upgrading to a 12g295 head. I intend to use a 1098 with a 1.5SU on my minor if I can jsut get a 1098 crank into a 948 block. I think the 1.25 SU is better for starting and idling though.

Cheers,
Matt

Post by **picky** » Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:11 pm

Got the engine started today! well sort of, it stalls unless u rev it really high. I think that maybe one of the cylinders isnt firing, but I hope to get it ticking over properly tommorrow. I've come across one problem though - the alloy rocker cover I have has steeper sides than the standard one, so it pushes the heater valve away at an odd angle, and pours water everywhere of course

Has anyone got any ideas on how to solve this? I think minis have an angled heater valve, could try using one of those.
Thanks for your advise everyone,
Tim

Post by **turbominor** » Wed Feb 09, 2005 8:25 pm

trouble with the angled heater tap it it hits the battery box/tray

i used a pipe from an ital with an inline heater hose on my last moggie

i would use the original rocket box or an early tap type heater tap

Post by **Welung666** » Wed Feb 09, 2005 8:39 pm

I have a tap type heater if you need it, I've got a new cable controlled one to go on Doris.

Lee

Post by **picky** » Wed Feb 09, 2005 9:57 pm

Well I thought about coming at it another way - to make an adapter that acts like a very thick gasket underneath the heater valve, because if the valve is high enough it wil not foul the rocker cover. Also - I'm wondering what to set the ignition riming to - Im using unleaded fuel with Castrol Valvemaster Plus, and the engine is currently set up as follows:

12G295 head, skimmed, ported and polished with 29/33mm valves

HIF38 carb with Minispeed water heated inlet manifold

Lucas Sports gold ignition coil

Maniflow LCB manifold and twin box exhaust

Other bits and bobs not worth mentioning...

From what I've read in other posts the best way to set the static timing is to set up a light bulb connected to the contact points, rotate the distributor anticlockwise until the light is on, then turn it slowly and stop when the light goes out. I'm just not sure which pointer to have the crank lined up with though for my engine spec.

Thanks again,
Tim

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:15 am

to make an adapter that acts like a very thick gasket underneath the heater valve,

ESM sell a connector to overcome this problem

Post by **picky** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:25 am

I've heard elsewhere that ESM do an adapter, but I can't find it on their website.

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:44 am

I think its one of those items that you have to contact them for as they are not a standard part.

Post by **Cam** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:32 am

For your engine spec a guess would be 6-8 degrees BTDC but it's best to run it and adjust to give the best power output before pinking occurs, or if you have the cash then get it set up on a rolling road.

You can set the timing statically, but check it dynamically after using a strobe.

Post by **picky** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:06 pm

Out of interest how much would one session on a rolling road cost, and would it be worth it if it was a lot of money to me? Also does anyone know of a good rolling road place in yorkshire.
Thanks,
Tim

PS I've emailed ESM about the heater adapter, waiting for reply.
Tim

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 9:32 am

I have heard that they are £100+ for a session + any parts used but as I have not actually used one I may be a bit out.
Well here is one in your area.
http://www.kp-motorsport.co.uk/

Post by **picky** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 9:22 am

Thanks kevin, I might just do it myself!!
About the heater adapter, I couldnt get it to fit at all, It looked like it had been made the wrong way. So I emailed ESM about it and they have realized that it has been made wrong!!! It leans the heater valve towards the rocker cover rather than away from it!! So they have sent me a free screw type heater tap for the time being, very kind of them

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 9:26 am

It leans the heater valve towards the rocker cover rather than away from it!!

I had one of those a long time ago and you could just get it to fit, but that was with a 12G940 head and standard rocker cover. The one advantage was it made it easier to change the gearbox as the engine could go a bit further towards the battery box when you dropped the back down.
Anyway - I digress, but the leaning heater tap brought back old memories. I'm not sure what it originally came from but it would have been one of the BMC cars.

Post by **picky** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:40 pm

Ah.. I think I should explain that the adapter keeps the heater valve vertical, but rotates it towards the rockers rather than away from it. Just in case anyone is getting confused

Tim

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 5:26 pm

Just in case anyone is getting confused

ah - I thought you were on abbout a leaning heater valve, but now I realise where I went wrong

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:45 pm

Best inlet manifold is the alloy MG Metro one - use it with the bigger carb. It should clear the sawn off exhaust manifold ok. But for a decent performance improvement you really need to change the head too. Remember - a bigger carb only gives more air at full throttle - so do you drive your Minor at full throttle much as it is ?

Post by **Peetee** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 10:51 pm

Remember - a bigger carb only gives more air at full throttle

Not always. combined with a suitably matched cylinder head and inlet manifold improvements can be made across the rev range compared with a standard carb.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 11:30 pm

Disagree - with the Su carb the airflow is nicely calibrated by the rise and fall of the piston - but when it reaches full open then power restriction applies. A bigger carb will still meter the air and fuel ok at all points - AND be able to flow more air due to the larger air space. Obviously the best will be a 1.75" SU which has had the full Wizard treatment - but this far too big for an otherwise fairly standard engine.

Post by **Peetee** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 2:28 pm

Hmm, not sure we are singing from the same hymn sheet. The point I was getting accross was that it's important to match the inlet system from head through to carb. any step changes between componants can cause turbulance and will not allow a absolute performance rating for a carb.