Brakes

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BaldyTone
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Re: Brakes

Postby BaldyTone » Wed May 23, 2018 7:47 pm

Thanks Phil,
I will have that bearing number please, so the inner one is a standard one for a marina? Also I keep meaning to ask someone, what, who whatever is “grumpy”?

philthehill
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Re: Brakes

Postby philthehill » Wed May 23, 2018 8:13 pm

The bearing part numbers for the Grumpy's disk brake conversion have now been listed in my post above.
The standard Marina/Ital front hub inner tapered roller bearing is L44649 same as listed above.
A front wheel bearing kit can be obtained from First Line Pt No: FBK 034.
Mr Grumpy was a supplier of Morris Minor conversion kits, improved parts and he also manufactured a rollover jig. He was originally based at South Hinksey, Oxford. Latterly he moved up north and carried on the business from an old mill.
My Marina/Ital brake conversion was supplied by Mr Grumpy when he was based at South Hinksey.
His improved parts seem to have been taken over by the likes of ESM.
What happened to Mr Grumpy I do not know. No doubt someone on here will give a definitive answer.

CS Autoclassics also supplied a Marina/Ital disc brake conversion kit conversion kit that utilised Marina stub axles and unmodified Marina/Ital hubs with 13" wheels.
My Series 2 was fitted with a CS Autoclassics Marina/Ital disc brake conversion and was fitted with the 1275cc Marina rear axle assy and had 13" dia wheels at both ends.
Before you do anything remove the hub grease cap and if you have a star type locking washer which fits over the nut you will have a CS Autoclassics conversion. If you have a castellated nut and possibly one or two heavy duty flat washers between the castellated nut and bearing in all probability you will have a Grumpy's conversion.
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Last edited by philthehill on Wed May 23, 2018 8:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.


smithskids
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Re: Brakes

Postby smithskids » Wed May 23, 2018 8:37 pm

Hi Phil, just as an aside, what is the exact legnth of the front axle wheel bearing spacer please. I am in the process of building up a spare set of uprights and may make my own spacers up.
Regards Iain.

philthehill
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Re: Brakes

Postby philthehill » Wed May 23, 2018 8:45 pm

Ian
I have recently got rid of the pair of NOS bearing spacer sleeves I had as I did not need them now that Marina/Ital stub axles have been fitted to my uprights so cannot give you any measurements.
The spacers required Pt No: MOD118A are available from Bullmotif :-
http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=4965

Personally I would purchase from Bullmotif even though I could turn up a pair myself. Sometimes it is easier to purchase ready made and save the hassle.
Phil


smithskids
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Re: Brakes

Postby smithskids » Wed May 23, 2018 8:49 pm

Ok, thanks Phil.

philthehill
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Re: Brakes

Postby philthehill » Wed May 23, 2018 8:55 pm



philthehill
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Re: Brakes

Postby philthehill » Thu May 24, 2018 9:03 pm

Reference Marina/Ital front hub bearing adjustment.

Extracted from British Leyland Morris Marina workshop manual Pt No AKM4580. Section 60-6.

Quote...…………..

5. Remove the nut retainer
6. Slacken the hub nut, spin the hub and whilst it is spinning tighten the nut using a suitable wrench set to 7Nm. 5lbf ft.
7. Stop the hub spinning and slacken the nut.
8. Tighten the nut finger-tight only.
9. Locate the nut retainer so that the left hand half of the split pin hole is masked by one of the arms of the retainer.
10. Slacken the nut and retainer until the split pin hole is uncovered.
11. Insert the split pin and lock by turning the legs of the split pin around the nut retainer

WARNING: At the minimum end float figure given (0.001" to 0.005"), a considerable amount of movement will be felt on the wheel (circumference). Do not reduce the end float below 0.001". The bearing must not be pre-loaded.

......……Unquote.
Phil


BaldyTone
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Re: Brakes

Postby BaldyTone » Fri May 25, 2018 2:47 pm

Thanks Phil, that is very helpful, cheers.

Edward1949
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Re: Brakes

Postby Edward1949 » Tue May 29, 2018 1:56 pm

philthehill wrote:
Mon May 21, 2018 3:38 pm
moggiethouable
The reason I included the statement 'not to be tightened so as to remove play' was because there have been some suggestions on this forum reference taper bearings which put forward the proposal that taper bearings should be lightly torqued up and with no play in the bearings or at the circumference of the wheel.
There should be no torque permanently applied to a taper hub bearing (Mini Cooper S front hub bearings aside which uses a spacer to get the correct bearing loading).
Finger tight and backed off is not sufficient to set the bearing - the taper bearing hub nut has to be tightened with a spanner sufficiently to ensure that the bearings are seated correctly and fully home in the hub and then backed off until there is an indicated 3/16" discernable play at the wheel circumference. Do not overtighten the hub nut so as to indent the bearing races - just nipped up is adequate.
If backing off the nut to the next available split pin hole increases the discernable play at the wheel circumference that cannot be helped so long as the play is not excessive. Sometimes changing the nut helps in adjusting the play.

I understand that taper bearings for use in Minor 1000 front hubs are available so the comment above regarding the types of bearings to hub relationship does not always hold true.
Phil
Nearly 50 years ago some serious accidents were caused when garage fitters who were familiar with the BMC 1100/1300 (non-taper) and now working on the new Allegro (taper) rear bearings torqued them up tightly. Needless to say the bearings quickly self-destructed. BL issued an Allegro-specific safety warning to dealers .


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