Useing an Ezibleed

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Rust bucket
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Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Rust bucket »

Just upgraded the brakes on my car to Wolseley 9" using Minor cylinders and having trouble again getting it to pump the brake fluid, it's a good Lockheed master which is only 3 years old. I had a lot of trouble bleeding the 8" before and now is fitted with a remote reservoir. So my question is please would a Gunson Ezibleed work on a Minor with a remote filler? , what sort of pressure does in need to be before things start flowing at the bleed nipple end. I did make up a diy job using a garden sprayer, must have been 5+ psi but nothing happened.
mogbob
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by mogbob »

The Eezibleed system works well provided you have the right size , tight fitting cap for the brake fluid reservoir.

Don't connect up to a fully inflated type. For older cars , max 10 psi recommended. Do a dummy run first of all "dry " i.e no brake fluid in the reservoir bottle supplied with the kit. This is to check you have an air tight system to start with. If you fill straight away , then if there is a leak brake fluid , under pressure will be sprayed everywhere. Effective paint remover unless you're very quick ! Wire brush , soak the bleed nipples with Plusgas /
WD 40 beforehand, right size spanner handy and away you go.

Gunsons , the manufacturer ,have a short little video demonstrating the kit in action.
Bob
alanworland
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by alanworland »

Never used an ezibleed myself but have modified old master cylinder caps to allow pressurisation from compressor, as above, 10 psi is good.
The only downside of my version is that I have to keep topping up! but it works for me.

Alan
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Sleeper »

Vacuum bleeder comments anyone?

John :wink:
Rust bucket
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Rust bucket »

Just tried another mod before I buy a Ezibleed, connected a pipe from the front tyre valve with the pressure let out to around 20lb psi. modified filller cap the other end....nothing, fluid doesn't move on either of the front bleed nipples.
alanworland
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by alanworland »

Strange? Never used anything as high as 20 psi (probably because I use the same process on our moderns with plastic reservoirs) but have always had a steady flow, not fast, at around 10 psi
Could be when pedal not depressed seals are covering ports?

Alan
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Rust bucket
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Rust bucket »

Good point, I did quickly read the gunson instructions on line and didn't see any mention of holding the peddle down on some cars. I'll try again, thanks.
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by GavinL »

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but won't holding the pedal down prevent fluid being pushed from the master cylinder to the brakes as the piston is pressuring the system? When the pedal is released the system is 'open' to the reservoir to allow the fluid to expand back from the brakelines into the reservoir to release the brakes. Hence why the Ezibleed is used without the pedal depressed

I've got an Ezibleed which works fine, I made a modified cap for mine, and found 10psi was quite sufficient as long as the lines are clear and vent screws open. I'd have a look at the vent screws, it's not unknown for them to be blocked with crud and/ or rust if they are old.
paul 300358
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by paul 300358 »

The design of the master cylinder only allows fluid to enter the system from the reservoir with the pedal up. I thought that the whole idea of the ezibleed was that you just connect it and then open the bleed nipples allowing air in the system to be pushed out.
Rust bucket
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Rust bucket »

Found a hand held vacuum pump on *bay for much less than an Ezibleed, was suggested before by a member which looks easy to use and cleaner.
philthehill
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by philthehill »

If the brake master cylinder operating rod has not been correctly adjusted to give some clearance between operating rod and piston the reservoir transfer hole (between reservoir and piston bore) may be covered so not allowing brake fluid to transfer from the reservoir to the master cylinder bore.
Check that the operating rod has been correctly adjusted so that the cylinder piston is back fully against the circlip.

paul 300358
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by paul 300358 »

That's a good point Phil, I never thought that someone could have adjusted out the clearance. I wonder how many people have had problems with brakes because of it?

You should have a small fountain in the master cylinder when you press the pedal, this is the fluid from the first part of the piston travel being forced up the transfer hole, that's why you shouldn't overfill the reservoir.
Rust bucket
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Rust bucket »

Update on my brake problems, I checked the clearance at the master and it's set with a gap so the piston is fully back. Vacuume pump has arrived and used I've used it, very good tool but still the same. Draws about a teaspoon full of fluid and that's it.
The master is only four years with around 4,000 miles on it, would the seals be leaking already? It is a genuine Lockheed one, also the cylinders are the geniune not cheap one's fitted at the same time. :x
philthehill
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by philthehill »

You should be able to draw the fluid out with a vacuum pump or pressure it out with an ezi-bleed.

There should be no restriction to bleeding using either method.

I would suggest that you remove the master cylinder and check the seals especially the recuperation valve seal.

paul 300358
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by paul 300358 »

Make sure that the bleed nipples are clean and not blocked
Rust bucket
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Rust bucket »

I'll check them, I've tried to bleed three with the same result but they all could be blocked. Thanks.
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by JOWETTJAVELIN »

Is there nobody you can ask to assist and operate the brake pedal?
philthehill
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by philthehill »

Even if the bleed nipples draws just a teaspoonful of brake fluid it means that brake fluid is able to pass through the nipple.

By all means make sure that they are clear but my prognosis is that the problem lies elsewhere.

You could try disconnecting the metal pipes (one at a time) from the rubber pipes and see what happens. If the brake fluid flows then it is a good indicator that the rubber pipe has de-laminated and is blocking the inside of the pipe and the transfer of brake fluid through it.

Isolate one section at a time working back towards the master cylinder.

Rust bucket
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by Rust bucket »

Everthing was fitted new at the time including all brake flexi pipes. But yes that's another idea.
philthehill
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Re: Useing an Ezibleed

Post by philthehill »

If the rubber brake pipes are new the only thing that will stop fluid from exiting the brake master cylinder is the recuperation valve.
If the recuperation valve is removed the fluid tract is straight through with no restrictors.
That is why when disc brakes are fitted the recuperation valve is removed to allow brake fluid to flow in and out of the master cylinder.

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