valve cotters

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ian.mcdougall
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valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

Hi all
(I have posted this in series MM section as well )
I am about to grind the valves on my side valve engine as one of the cylinders was down on pressure, is there a surefire way to put the valve cotters back in place if the engine is still installed in the car,or would it be easier to take engine out and put it on the bench as i will also have to do the tappet clearances and i know that is a job that is difficult enough :evil: :evil: .
Ian

alanworland
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Re: valve cotters

Post by alanworland »

Oh I can remember grinding valves in position and setting tappets, so much fun!
The important thing is to make sure the valve chest holes into the sump are covered to avoid anything dropped heading that way.
Take the rad out I would suggest, I managed to break the soldered joint on the header tank by leaning over on it.

Alan
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ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

Hi Alan
I read in the workshop manual about covering the drain holes.
I also have to replace the head studs and nuts as somebody in the past changed the studs for cut down bolts and plain nuts, also i may have to heli-coil some of the studs as some studs felt loose and i got the impression the last time i torqued the head nuts that some studs were pulling up as i felt i could not reach the required torque figures
Ian

IslipMinor
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Re: valve cotters

Post by IslipMinor »

My very first car was a Morris 8 Series 'E', and that had virtually the same side-valve engine in it to the Series MM Minor, but I think there was an access panel in the LH inner wing, so that you could get at the tappets from the side. I still have, and still use, the Matador open-ended spanner that I ground down in width, so that I could get at the tappet locknut properly!

Presumably the inner wing access panel wasn't carried over to the first versions of the Minor?

Cylinder head studs not torqueing up properly sounds like an engine out job, and a bit of serious attention required. At least the tappet adjustment will be much easier then.
Richard


ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

Hi Richard
Unfortunately no access panel,Acquired the three special tappet spanners when first got car.Have already in the past heli-coiled one head stud with engine in.With torque figures it may be just me not wanting to over torque and not torqueing up enough.

ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

Hi all again.
Took off water jacket on r/h of engine block and heard something drop could not find anything but when i pushed car back later found this
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alanworland
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Re: valve cotters

Post by alanworland »

You reckon that came out of the water jacket?
All the bolts should go into tapped holes.

Alan
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ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

I think the curly bits fit into the water jacket and the small parts fit into the square hole at the front of the area where the jacket fits .
Its about 1 inch wide and 2 inches tall

ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

Reguarding bolts in water jacket, in the workshop manual it shows a washer under the bolt head and then a washer between jacket and block the washer under the bolt heads seems to be a copper one and no evidence off the other washer although there was some blue sealer there ,
, does it need a washer between jacket and block to make a water tight seal,as the gasket does that around the edge of the jacket

ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

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Forgot picture the washers are 175 and 176 by bolt 174

alanworland
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Re: valve cotters

Post by alanworland »

I don't remember washers under the jacket as I'm sure the gasket covered this area but if it didn't I guess the washers would be the same material/thickness as the main gasket.

Alan
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ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

Thats what i was thinking.I cant seem to find a gasket for the cover so i will have to make one and make some washers from the same gasket paper. The clip or whatever it is, is made of brass and fits in the round hole to the front of the block and i wonder is it some sort of a restricter for the flow of water??

alanworland
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Re: valve cotters

Post by alanworland »

Somehow that deflector is ringing a bell, could be to direct water flow from the pump and circulate round the block.
Many moons ago my water jacket leaked through alloy corrosion and in the early days they were unobtainable so I ground back to solid material and repaired the area with araldite - and it's been leak free for the past 35 years!
I do now have a replacement should the inevitable occur!

Alan
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ian.mcdougall
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Re: valve cotters

Post by ian.mcdougall »

Hi Alan
At the moment my car has no water pump but i acquired a NOS original heater kit many moons ago and also a water pump.Both will be fitted one day.I hope to start the restoration this year i promise :oops: :oops:
As to the water jacket mine seems to sweat water all over when left for some time so a new one has been purchased .
I spent about an hour today pressure washing all the rust and jelly like stuff (don't know where that's from but i suspect some reaction with the alloy water bits) surprised at the amount of rusty crud that was in there

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