1952 series MM

for those with Series MM sidevalve cars produced between September 1948 and February 1953
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manlyvaleaussie
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1952 series MM

Post by manlyvaleaussie »

Can someone tell me the correct torque value for the wheel attaching bolts on the Series MM. Paul Follett. manlyvaleaussie
RobThomas
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Re: 1952 series MM

Post by RobThomas »

I don't know but worth first checking that they haven't cracked near te holes, worn oval or have worn away with a step so that when torqued down they bottom out on the drum before they clamp the wheel down.
If worn down then I have a fix available.

Handbook merely says to make sure bolts are 'tight'.
Cardiff, UK
alanworland
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Re: 1952 series MM

Post by alanworland »

But not as tight as a 'modern' with 12mm bolts pulled up to 110nm!
Many moons ago I changed the studs in the hubs as they had obviously been over tightened as one was stretched at its base where the pitch between threads was about 4 times what it should have been!
I saved it as I couldn't believe it hadn't broke, I'd put a photo of it up but not sure where it was filed.

Alan
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smithskids
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Re: 1952 series MM

Post by smithskids »

Usual fix is fit soft iron washers until you can get some good 2nd hand wheels. 45lbs/ft is enough. Depends whether the bolts are unf or bsf.
RobThomas
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Re: 1952 series MM

Post by RobThomas »

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Posted before but maybe worth adapting if you need something that is both safe and cosmetically acceptable? Lathe the nuts down to look like Series MM ones?
Cardiff, UK
smithskids
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Re: 1952 series MM

Post by smithskids »

Hi Rob, did you put the studs in from the inside of the brake drum with a flange on the back?
RobThomas
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Re: 1952 series MM

Post by RobThomas »

Nah, I just cut the long bolts down and used thread lock to hold them in place, screwing them in to the right length. Ford 60 degree 7/16 nuts are perfect.
Cardiff, UK
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