I have been getting a very bad tick over lately, checked a few things today, took off vacuum pipe and was just sucking air no vacuum at all, ESM sell a replacement unit, can you tell me how difficult it is to replace, do I need to remove the distributor
Regards Ron
Vacuum advance
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
- geoberni
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3591
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2017 11:19 am
- Location: North Leicestershire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Vacuum advance
It's a 10 minute job to change it.
I had a disconnected shaft on mine, just pulled out the bottom of the little flying saucer... The only problem I had was the knurled adjuster knob on the new one was a little off centre, therefore didn't sit square in the slot, so I just swapped the old one over.
Everything is there and accessible once you unclip the Dissy Cap.
I had a disconnected shaft on mine, just pulled out the bottom of the little flying saucer... The only problem I had was the knurled adjuster knob on the new one was a little off centre, therefore didn't sit square in the slot, so I just swapped the old one over.
Everything is there and accessible once you unclip the Dissy Cap.
Basil the 1955 series II
Re: Vacuum advance
It depends on what's been done over the years, and how dexterous you are. I would remove the dizzy to get better access.
The knurled knob is retained bye a small circlip, and also compresses a small spring. Much easier to remove and refit with the dizzy out, but can be done in situ. Remove the clip. Unscrew the knob. Unhook the sopring inside the dizzy and remove the failed unit. Reverse to refit. Sometimes the circlip has been losr, sometimes replaced by a bit of bent wire or other improvised fitting.
The knurled knob is retained bye a small circlip, and also compresses a small spring. Much easier to remove and refit with the dizzy out, but can be done in situ. Remove the clip. Unscrew the knob. Unhook the sopring inside the dizzy and remove the failed unit. Reverse to refit. Sometimes the circlip has been losr, sometimes replaced by a bit of bent wire or other improvised fitting.
-
- Minor Maniac
- Posts: 10809
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:05 pm
- Location: Hampshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Vacuum advance
Better done off the engine.
Do not forget the clip that fits into the distributer body and presses against the knurled knob - if lost the knurled knob can turn losing the timing.
Do not forget the clip that fits into the distributer body and presses against the knurled knob - if lost the knurled knob can turn losing the timing.
Re: Vacuum advance
Thank you for the replies, my unit has a screw fitting for the pipe and they don't seem to be available, would it be ok to use the push fit type, also the morris minor specialist are about £33 on ebay the sparkrite and accuspark are around £16 would anyone use the cheaper option
Ron
Ron
-
- Minor Maniac
- Posts: 10809
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:05 pm
- Location: Hampshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Vacuum advance
There is no problem with using the push on type vacuum advance unit so long as you use the correct rubber connector at the distributer end of the pipe.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/connector ... soc=136875
Whether you use a vacuum advance with screw on pipe or push on pipe they do exactly the same job.
For vacuum advance units I would suggest:-
http://www.distributordoctor.com/vacuum_units.html
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/connector ... soc=136875
Whether you use a vacuum advance with screw on pipe or push on pipe they do exactly the same job.
For vacuum advance units I would suggest:-
http://www.distributordoctor.com/vacuum_units.html
Re: Vacuum advance
Thank you I will contact them monday
Re: Vacuum advance
Thank you I will contact them monday