Distributor prices

[Chazbee]

The vacuum advance on my 1968 bog standard 1098 convertible is no longer doing it’s thing so I have searched for a replacement which will cost around £30. During my search I came across a website on eBay offering a complete 45d Powermax distributor for around £30. Normal price for a new distributor is above £60 so I wonder if any readers have any thoughts on this. My own questions are:-
Is a 45d distributor a direct replacement for the standard 25d?
Has anybody got one of these - the price seems too good to be true (usually a sign that it is!)
I suspect my distributor is the original, and with 85000 (185000?) miles on the clock would probably benefit from replacing but I’m wary of buying what might be a poorly made copy as per many items on eBay.

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

New one won't be same quality as the original, better to get the original reconditioned by someone like Distributor Doctor.

[philthehill]

Why not just replace the vacuum advance.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini ... Swz1peGKx3

Replacing the vacuum advance is a easy task and if careful does not require the distributer to be removed.

I would suggest that there are many more miles left in that distributer. It takes a lot to wear out a genuine Lucas distributer.

[Biggles1957]

I fitted an Accuspark complete dizzy to my Traveller and also to a Series III Land-Rover. Neither of them missed a beat - I ran the Traveller as my daily for seven years - NEVER failed to start on the button. Land-Rover sits for long periods and does the same. I understand why people say have the original rebuilt because yes, the quality of some replacements isn't the same but the cost of doing this would pay for at least four replacements. Up to you of course, but mine have been totally reliable.

If they've not been properly maintained (and let's face it not many people do actually look after their dizzy like they're 'sposed to) it's surprising how much the innards wear. The Distributor Doctor can tell all sorts of horror stories about just how worn they get and yet still actually run the engine - not as efficiently as when new of course but they DO wear.

[Biggles1957]

Forgot to say - mine were both 45D - Dizzy Doctor told me the advance curve was better suited to modern fuels I think? My Traveller ran REALLY well!

[Chazbee]

I don’t have a problem fitting a new vacuum advance - I usually remove the distributor to put new points in anyway (much easier on the bench) but I was querying whether it made sense to pay the same money for a vacuum unit as a complete distributor. If no one has tried one of these units I think I’ll stick with the old distributor - the engine is running fine and I’ve got Distributor Doctor points,rotor arm and condenser fitted.
Thanks for all replies.
Chas

[philthehill]

It does make sense to replace the vacuum advance.

Whilst you may think that the engine is running well - it will run even better with a working vacuum advance.

The vacuum advance listed via the link in my post above is a genuine Rover part and made in UK therefore I would suggest that the part is good.

You will soon recoup the expenditure with better overall performance and better MPG.

[myoldjalopy]

Phil,
If the vac advance is replaced, does the timing have to be adjusted at all afterward?
Thanks,
Pete

[philthehill]

You may or may not have to adjust the timing.
The timing may have been set/compensated for with the faulty vacuum advance.
The timing is easy to adjust - see wksp manual section CC.
The factory setting may have to be varied as the settings are for leaded fuel but start with 3 degrees Before Top Dead Centre. (B.T.D.C.)
If you have a timing light use it and set timing at 6 degrees B.T.D.C at 600 rpm.
Final ignition timings should be set after road testing as all engine are not the same and all do not respond to the factory settings.

Phil

[myoldjalopy]

Thank you. I am guessing that, were I to replace the vac advance, the timing adjustment would be slight as the car is running very well already and returns 40-odd mpg on steady runs. But I do know the existing vac advance is at least 20 years old - that's how long I have had the car and may well be older.......

[philthehill]

To test the vacuum advance - suck on the pipe to the vacuum advance and see what happens. If it moves the distributer base plate the vacuum advance is serviceable. There is no use by date on the vacuum advance diaphragm - if it works it works and if it does not replace.
The vacuum advance can last the life of the car if looked after properly.
Whilst not fitted to the later cars the baffle/flame trap between carb and vacuum unit is useful in that it keeps fuel vapours and oil away from the diaphragm so prolonging the diaphragms working life.

When fitting the new vacuum advance - four things to observe/do.

1. Make sure that you do not loose the spring clip between adjusting nut and distributer body,

2. Make a note of the position of the adjusting nut and reset the nut on the threaded spindle in the same position.

3. Make a note of the position of the distributer relative to the block and put back into the same position.

4. Make a note of the order of plug leads - mark No: 1 plug lead. Firing order 1.3.4.2.

Just to clarify - the 3 degrees B.T.D.C. quoted in my post above is the static timing.

Apologies if you already know the above but there may be those that do not and are looking for guidance.

Just

[myoldjalopy]

Thank you. I do have the flame trap gizmo on mine. It is an 803cc dizzy in a 948 engine.