Trying to find the rubber seals to cure the leak at rear of sump seal, but the only supplier that I can find are for 1275 Midget application.
Are they suitable for A+ please? I do know that the mains are the same size, but not sure of rear flange?
Rubber crank seals for 1275 A+
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Rubber crank seals for 1275 A+
The rubber seals for the 1275cc Midget are suitable for the 'A' Plus engine. The only difference to the sumps of the 1275cc Midget and 1275cc 'A' Plus engine is that the 1275cc 'A' Plus sump has a strengthening plate welded to the bottom of the sump and bolted to the bottom of the 1275cc 'A' Plus bell housing. Not only are the seals interchangeable but also the sumps are interchangeable. I had a Marina/Ital 1275cc sump fitted to my 1275cc Midget block with the strengthening plate cut short to clear the bell housing.
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Rubber crank seals for 1275 A+
Thanks for confirmation Phil.
In your opinion,which I fully respect, which are superior in this installation please ?
In your opinion,which I fully respect, which are superior in this installation please ?
John
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Rubber crank seals for 1275 A+
midget
I have always used the cork seals and never had any trouble with leaks.
I do have a few sets of the rubber/neoprene seals but have never felt the need to use them.
I always soak the cork seals in engine oil overnight and grease the holding grooves of the sump.
The seals must just protrude above the ends of the holding groove (see manual for details) so that when the sump bolts are tightened the cork is under compression. The ends of the cork seal should remain square and not be trimmed to be parallel with the block/sump faces.
I always grease the side gaskets and put them up first and then attach the sump.
Examine the seal groove of the sump to make sure that the metal side of the groove (separate metal piece) which is spot welded to the main part of the sump is secure. I have a 1275cc Midget sump where the side of the groove has become detached from several spot welds and is ineffective in holding the seal in place.
The rubber/neoprene seals are better in a production line scenario as they are much easier to fit and do not require to be fitted/fettled.
In most cases the cork seals do need to be fitted/fettled.
It should be noted that the rubber/neoprene seal has a metal core.
I hope that the above is of help.
Phil
I have always used the cork seals and never had any trouble with leaks.
I do have a few sets of the rubber/neoprene seals but have never felt the need to use them.
I always soak the cork seals in engine oil overnight and grease the holding grooves of the sump.
The seals must just protrude above the ends of the holding groove (see manual for details) so that when the sump bolts are tightened the cork is under compression. The ends of the cork seal should remain square and not be trimmed to be parallel with the block/sump faces.
I always grease the side gaskets and put them up first and then attach the sump.
Examine the seal groove of the sump to make sure that the metal side of the groove (separate metal piece) which is spot welded to the main part of the sump is secure. I have a 1275cc Midget sump where the side of the groove has become detached from several spot welds and is ineffective in holding the seal in place.
The rubber/neoprene seals are better in a production line scenario as they are much easier to fit and do not require to be fitted/fettled.
In most cases the cork seals do need to be fitted/fettled.
It should be noted that the rubber/neoprene seal has a metal core.
I hope that the above is of help.
Phil
Re: Rubber crank seals for 1275 A+
That’s where I went wrong, I trimmed the corks proud but parallel !
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Rubber crank seals for 1275 A+
Me too Les, that could be the answer to my re occurring problem.
Many thanks Phil.
Many thanks Phil.
John