I have a 1970 Morris Minor 1000.
I want to replace the knackered bushes for POLY, but I am dsylexic and the Manual might as wel lbe written in Hieroglyphics.
I am a total noivce when it comes to cars
How do I seperate these two parts in the picture. I dont even know what they are called
One is going to steering, one is connected to suspension
From the steering is track rod with joint with grease nipple going into steering arm.
It's a tapered fit, so to remove hit side of steering arm with flat face of hammer and it will shock loose. Good idea to put nut back loosely so you don't hit threads.
Screenshot_20221230-163337_Samsung Internet.jpg (81.88 KiB) Viewed 1173 times
That appears to be a photo of a track rod end. I may be wrong but usually they are replaced as a unit with just a rubber dust cap. I'm not sure where the poly bushes come in?
To separate the joint you'll need a ball joint splitter, breaker or fork. Sometimes just a hammer and a whack of encouragement is all that's needed.
It's a good idea to count the number of turns you make to remove the track rod(s), then count the same number of turns when you put it/them back.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
As Phil said above you do not need to split this joint. If you are just doing the bushes it is best to keep as much connected. Particularly important is keeping the brake hydraulics connected
Before you start I would spray the torsion bar to lower wishbone joint with plusgas or similar and let this soak in.
I know there are some YouTube videos available showing how to split down the front suslension I would suggest you watch these before starting.
Changing the bushes is straightforwards as long as you follow a methodical process
If and when you do want to do the joint, undoing the nut may be a problem as these usually have a nyloc nut. Sometimes when undoing the nut it may spin in the joint and there is no way of holding it to continue undoing. So first ensure the threads protruding from the nut are thoroughly cleaned. Place a jack under the track arm and take the weight before trying to undo the nut. This should allow you to completely remove the nut.
Remove the jack and preferably with a splitter release the joint. The joints are tapered and will be tight. Sometimes releasing the taper can be done by hitting the arms or the threaded part, with a nut on, with a hammer. Consequences of hammering are, damage to threads, track arms and skinned and/or bruised hands. Use a splitter and when tightened, then less aggressive hammering of the arms will help. Hit a few times and retighten splitter. Repeat until release.
Whilst agreeing in principle, most owners probably started knowing very little about the mechanics of their Minors, but with time and guidance have (or can) become perfectly proficient in maintaining their cars. If direct supervision is not available, then the ideal would be to do the work and then have it checked by a competent person.
As above, if you have a friend or family member who works on cars, it would be a good idea to do the job with them so you know it's being done safely. You really don't want to do something wrong unknowingly that then fails while you're driving it.
With regards to steering being safety-critical, I think there are very few things that aren't on a car. Things like brakes always get talked about as being safety-critical and therefore demanding of care and experience, but you also wouldn't want your headlights failing on an unlit country lane or your engine cutting out while overtaking on a motorway, for example.
simmitc wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 2:46 pm
Whilst agreeing in principle, most owners probably started knowing very little about the mechanics of their Minors, but with time and guidance have (or can) become perfectly proficient in maintaining their cars. If direct supervision is not available, then the ideal would be to do the work and then have it checked by a competent person.
I can't agree enough. I'm a competent diy'er but arguably an incompetent mechanic! However, since getting my first Moggy (and first classic car for that matter) in April I've replaced the head gasket set, fitted electronic ignition, dismantled the car to refurbish the woodwork AND replaced the suspension bushes. There's a lot of trial and error, but making sure parts fit well and ensuring things are tight, in my experience means you don't go too far wrong. On my car, I find that doing a job I've never done before, properly, takes me two goes and sometimes three. Just be prepared to learn the hard way.
simmitc wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 2:46 pm
Whilst agreeing in principle, most owners probably started knowing very little about the mechanics of their Minors, but with time and guidance have (or can) become perfectly proficient in maintaining their cars. If direct supervision is not available, then the ideal would be to do the work and then have it checked by a competent person.
Thanks, this is exactly what I am doing, front suspension bushes changed bar the ones in the Torsion bar. As they look pretty new
Will look at rear suspension next . My plan is to change/replace/fix what I can, then get my worked checked by my mechnic who once was a Morris Minor Fan many moons ago!
Good for you. None of us were born with this knowledge and if you want to work on a car, a Morris Minor is one of the most straightforward. Arm yourself with a good workshop manual, ask questions on here (like you have!) and take photos before you dismantle things (you've done that too!). Get yourself a decent selection of tools. You can often buy these secondhand. Don't be afraid to ask. Some people find that they quickly become very able and others do not. You won't know until you try, but getting your work checked afterwards is a good idea
Good luck!
With regards to tools, second hand tools are often not only cheaper but better. Boot sales are a great source of good tools. I often see old Britool socket sets and spanner going for a few quid. A lot of new affordable tools are pretty poor quality in my experience and in the case of whitworth spanners, even seem to be the wrong size!
If you do delve into the front suspension to replace the bushes then be very careful and seek help when you take the tension off the torsion bar. There is a procedure to do it safely shown in the manual but with your dyslexia you might need someone on standby to talk you through it.
Not necessary just to do the track rod ends though.
