Rear Suspension Overhaul Advice please

[svenedin]

I have been under the car today to inspect the rear suspension. I had suspected there were some noises indicating all is not well.

On inspection I have found:

1) One damper leaking oil from the spindle
2) Bump stops rather near to the body and leaf springs looking tired and rather flat
3) Drop links very rusty.
4) All mounting points looking good and solid

So I have determined that I really I need to do a full rear suspension overhaul. Both dampers need exchanging for refurbished units, both leaf springs are tired (one more than the other), replace drop links, replace all bushes with poly.

There is a leaf spring kit available from ESM that has all the necessary fittings and the other parts needed are not a problem either.

I have never worked on the rear suspension. I have tried to read up on what to do but I obviously want to do the job safely and as painlessly as possible.

My questions are:

1) Presumably I will need to jack up the body and the rear axle independently of each other. I have 2x trolley jacks and 4x axle stands. Where can I safely jack the body? Can I do one side at a time?
2) The drop links on the car at the moment have castle nuts and split pins. I have read that inserting the pin can be troublesome. ESM sell a nyloc nut as an alternative. Is that acceptable?

Any tips or suggestions to a guide to how to do these jobs would be much appreciated. I am in no hurry to start the job.

Stephen

[Grumpy21]

Hi. I did exactly this a year or so ago and everything proceeded quite as expected with just a couple of exceptions.

The front rear spring pin and plates were a bu99er to get off. In the end I cut the heads off the two small bolts and removed the complete assembly that way. As the replacement kit includes all the parts you won’t need to reuse any. The new replacement plates were a tiny fraction incorrect and needed two mods to fit well; first a light emery cloth to open up the centre hole as it was too small for the pin to fit inside, second the spring hanger hole needed enlarging as the plate didn’t fit flush.

At the rear the new shackles allowed the spring to come into contact with the chassis to the weld flange needed to be tapered and re welded.

As for jacking, I’m fortunate to have a mid rise lift and supported the rear of the car on rubber blocks on the spring hangers, I’d imagine axle stand’s would serve just as well.

[svenedin]

Ok thanks. I certainly won't be able to modify anything by welding so I hope that is not needed or I'll be in a pickle.

I think I will use a plank of wood transversely across the car in front of the front spring mounts in order to jack up the body and then support it on axle stands. I will need to check that there is nothing that will get crushed with that technique.

At the moment the rear spring kit with poly bushes is out of stock with ESM and had been for a while. I think it is the poly bushes that they don't have in stock. I will ring them tomorrow for an ETA.

I have some holiday coming up mid July and ideally I would like to do the job then.

[Grumpy21]

you will need 4 axle stands, two to support the body and two to support the axle. I wouldn't use a plank across the chassis just stout blocks on either side - the exhaust will probably be in the way of a plank

[svenedin]

you will need 4 axle stands, two to support the body and two to support the axle. I wouldn't use a plank across the chassis just stout blocks on either side - the exhaust will probably be in the way of a plank

OK. I'll see what blocks of wood I can find. I have the luxury of planning the job because the parts are not in stock. Once the parts are available I'll get in there with the PlusGas on the nuts and bolts.

[Grumpy21]

sorry, by blocks I mean sturdy blocks on top of good axle stands to spread the load. I'm not advocating supporting the car on a mish-mash of assorted bit of timber.

[svenedin]

sorry, by blocks I mean sturdy blocks on top of good axle stands to spread the load. I'm not advocating supporting the car on a mish-mash of assorted bit of timber.

Yes indeed. I have some decent timber and good axle stands. I will have a look under the car tomorrow. I read various previous threads on this topic but of course nobody seemed to agree about where exactly to support the body of the car. Immediately in front of the front leaf spring hangers seemed to be a place many people advocated but others said behind the petrol tank on stout timber and axle stands. Then of course there was an argument about using the boot floor, even on a beam of timber. This is what usually happens when I read old threads! Clear as mud......

I had a nearly fatal accident 2 years ago. It was nothing to do with cars but I am now much more risk averse. I also had to reduce my work to part time so I don't have the cash to pay garages to do jobs I could reasonably tackle myself.

[Grumpy21]

Sorry to hear of your accident. I can only explain what I did and felt very comfortable with.

I'm lucky to have a mid rise lift but that still has to make contact with the body at some point. The front is easy as it lifts on the forward 'chassis' legs but at the rear I use two wooden blocks (6x4x2 inches), one each side and they make contact midway along the spring hanger. I figure that area is strong anyway as its designed to hold a major suspension component, its accessible from either side easily and gives maximum access to everything aft to removed and replace without things in the way.

When you remove the springs theres nothing left holding the axle in place so it must be supported.

[svenedin]

Sorry to hear of your accident. I can only explain what I did and felt very comfortable with.

I'm lucky to have a mid rise lift but that still has to make contact with the body at some point. The front is easy as it lifts on the forward 'chassis' legs but at the rear I use two wooden blocks (6x4x2 inches), one each side and they make contact midway along the spring hanger. I figure that area is strong anyway as its designed to hold a major suspension component, its accessible from either side easily and gives maximum access to everything aft to removed and replace without things in the way.

When you remove the springs theres nothing left holding the axle in place so it must be supported.

Thank you. Yes I got impaled on a metal pole. I am very luck to be alive thanks to amazing NHS emergency care.

I'll go under the car this morning and take some pictures and hopefully that will confirm we are talking about the same place. Unfortunately, old threads on this site have lost their pictures which makes them much less useful. I have various timber that can be cut into blocks. I have seen that there is a reinforcing plate around the spring hanger.

Yes, I will certainly support the axle as well as the body.

Stephen

[svenedin]

So we are taking about just in front of this front spring hanger bracket on wooden blocks? In notice there's a screw coming through from above near there. I'll have to check what that is for. First picture shows a damper leaking from the spindle.

I just phoned ESM and the poly bushes are out of stock without a known ETA so this will just have to wait. I am not going to do the job with rubber bushes and then do it again! I could do just the dampers and drop links for now though but I think I'll just wait.

[Grumpy21]

In the car (wife driving) so wobbly pic. But I’ve highlighted the place

[svenedin]

Ah right. Actually on the bracket. Doesn’t that make it really awkward getting the spring out and refitting though?

[olonas]

I renewed the rear leafs, about 20 years ago, pig of a job then because everything was seized! Violence was certainly used. Used rubber bushes which still look to be in excellent condition.
I raised and supported the body, using jack and axle stands respectively, behind the petrol tank. Weight distributed evenly using a long enough piece of sturdy hardwood. I can't remember where that method was recommended. No damage done.
Out of curiosity, and this is in no way a recommendation, I did lift the rear of the car using an engine crane with slings under the two bumper mounts. They are surprisingly strong.
Sorry if you know this, but the springs have a front and rear. Take note of where the leaf clamps are. Double and single. Without checking I don't know whether the two clamps are front or rear.

[svenedin]

I renewed the rear leafs, about 20 years ago, pig of a job then because everything was seized! Violence was certainly used. Used rubber bushes which still look to be in excellent condition.
I raised and supported the body, using jack and axle stands respectively, behind the petrol tank. Weight distributed evenly using a long enough piece of sturdy hardwood. I can't remember where that method was recommended. No damage done.
Out of curiosity, and this is in no way a recommendation, I did lift the rear of the car using an engine crane with slings under the two bumper mounts. They are surprisingly strong.
Sorry if you know this, but the springs have a front and rear. Take note of where the leaf clamps are. Double and single. Without checking I don't know whether the two clamps are front or rear.

Thank you for your advice. I was considering supporting the car behind the petrol tank on a beam of strong timber and 2x axle stands. I could raise the car on a trolley jack under the diff and then lower onto the beam. I will also support the axle of course. The floor of my car is in very good condition and any rust is very superficial.

I will check carefully that I have the springs the right way round!

I am expecting horribly seized parts so once I know when I am going to do the job I will start daily PlusGas soakings........

ESM could give me no ETA on the poly bush spring kit so if things get worse or the wait turns into months I may have to consider ordering the rubber bush kit and getting a set of poly bushes and spring pads from Moss (who does have the items in stock). This would make the job more expensive though. The Moss bushes are Superflex branded though.

[Grumpy21]

Ah right. Actually on the bracket. Doesn’t that make it really awkward getting the spring out and refitting though?

No, the beauty of where I put the blocks is that the entire rear of the car is free from obstructions. The springs come out towards the rear in any case

[Monty-4]

I was considering supporting the car behind the petrol tank on a beam of strong timber and 2x axle stands. I could raise the car on a trolley jack under the diff and then lower onto the beam. I will also support the axle of course. The floor of my car is in very good condition and any rust is very superficial.

That is exactly how I do it. Jack under the axle and a plank of wood across the back just behind the rear-rear spring mounts, supported by axle stands (and a couple of wheels underneath the car just in case).

Careful letting the car down again when you're done, my jack went down quickly once and the bumper blade hit the top of my knee where I was crouching and I nearly passed out from the pain. No damage done at least, just a shock.

Some have complained of new leaf springs being far too stiff and harsh, made worse by the rear dampers not being the best. There are specialists leaf spring suppliers that aren't ESM.

[svenedin]

I was considering supporting the car behind the petrol tank on a beam of strong timber and 2x axle stands. I could raise the car on a trolley jack under the diff and then lower onto the beam. I will also support the axle of course. The floor of my car is in very good condition and any rust is very superficial.

That is exactly how I do it. Jack under the axle and a plank of wood across the back just behind the rear-rear spring mounts, supported by axle stands (and a couple of wheels underneath the car just in case).

Careful letting the car down again when you're done, my jack went down quickly once and the bumper blade hit the top of my knee where I was crouching and I nearly passed out from the pain. No damage done at least, just a shock.

Some have complained of new leaf springs being far too stiff and harsh, made worse by the rear dampers not being the best. There are specialists leaf spring suppliers that aren't ESM.

Thank you.

Yes I have been careless with a trolley jack before too. Nothing happens and then I open the valve too far and the car comes down rather abruptly!

I will follow your suggestion about other companies for springs. The springs are now out of stock with ESM as well as the bushes. I last had the springs replaced over 30 years ago (one actually snapped) and back then the replacements were good.

Do the ESM springs "soften up"?

Stephen

[Monty-4]

I wish somebody would manufacture a parabolic leaf spring for the Minor (I've asked several places with no luck). MGB owners are spoilt!

[paul 300358]

I changed my springs last year with a set from a usual supplier, they lasted about two months before the bump stops hit the pad over any bump. I contacted Jones springs who made me a set to the original specification, they cost quite a bit more but are worth it. The others at the back of my workshop if you want them. I'm near junction 17 of the M6.

[svenedin]

I changed my springs last year with a set from a usual supplier, they lasted about two months before the bump stops hit the pad over any bump. I contacted Jones springs who made me a set to the original specification, they cost quite a bit more but are worth it. The others at the back of my workshop if you want them. I'm near junction 17 of the M6.

2 months! That's terrible. The current set have lasted 30 years.

I will contact Jones Springs and get a quote.

Thanks for the warning. Thank you for the offer of your old springs but that is just why I am going to change mine. They have lost their "spring"

Stephen