Cracked bodywork
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- Newbie
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Cracked bodywork
Last June I took my moggy to the morris minor repair garage in Manchester for a paint repair job I paid just over £3000. 14 months later I noticed bubbling appearing mainly on the bonnet but on close inspection it's appearing in random places. You can see on the picture. I took it in today and they said it was due to the extreme hot weather and mainly due to the fact that the car isn't garaged. I've had the car now 8 years and could do with some independent advice .....
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 131
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Re: Cracked bodywork
Extreme weather? What about vehicles that live in Cyprus or Saudi Arabia the don't suffer like this, faded paint yes and peeling lacquer yes due to Extreme heat but not what you have,
It's easy to criticise another business from one's armchair but from what can be seen in the photo the small spots appear to be acid pop, (there's lots of different names for this) this is where either the paint was applied to thick and to fast and so builds up small pockets of gas under the paint or there was moisture in the airline which left small pockets of damp under the paint,
The cracked areas where there appears to be rust coming from underneath could again point to the paint being to thick and as its shrunkback over time it's cracked or just very poor preparation,
I would suggest talking to a good local bodyshop, perhaps one that deals with classics generally not just Minors and ask for their opinion, perhaps your garage had an issue with their air supply when they painted your car, or perhaps the painter was inexperienced, who knows... unfortunately your on a sticky wicket as they are free to blame things such as the paint on the car reacted with their paint, it's an old car, etc etc,
I will never spray over old paint on a classic as it's just asking for problems, unfortunately some companies want to carry out their work fast and cheap to maximise profits and some customers don't want to spend lots on paint work but that's where it can all go wrong
Hope this helps
Steve
It's easy to criticise another business from one's armchair but from what can be seen in the photo the small spots appear to be acid pop, (there's lots of different names for this) this is where either the paint was applied to thick and to fast and so builds up small pockets of gas under the paint or there was moisture in the airline which left small pockets of damp under the paint,
The cracked areas where there appears to be rust coming from underneath could again point to the paint being to thick and as its shrunkback over time it's cracked or just very poor preparation,
I would suggest talking to a good local bodyshop, perhaps one that deals with classics generally not just Minors and ask for their opinion, perhaps your garage had an issue with their air supply when they painted your car, or perhaps the painter was inexperienced, who knows... unfortunately your on a sticky wicket as they are free to blame things such as the paint on the car reacted with their paint, it's an old car, etc etc,
I will never spray over old paint on a classic as it's just asking for problems, unfortunately some companies want to carry out their work fast and cheap to maximise profits and some customers don't want to spend lots on paint work but that's where it can all go wrong
Hope this helps
Steve
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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2569
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Re: Cracked bodywork
I agree, there's no way that sort of problem should have appeared after 14 months. Any suggestion that it is due to extreme hot weather and being ungaraged is disingenuous, to say the least.
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Cracked bodywork
As said the blisters should never happen on a profesional paint job, usually moisture in the primer or trapped solvents, with a proper oven this should not happen. The cracks look to be filler that moisure has got into, could be an old repair or a bodged repair over rust.
Unfortunately the only option is to at least strip the paint back to below the level the blisters are in or ideally to bare metal cut out and weld in new metal where there is rust and repaint, an epoxy primer should be the first step as this is not hydroscopic and seals the surface.
Unfortunately the only option is to at least strip the paint back to below the level the blisters are in or ideally to bare metal cut out and weld in new metal where there is rust and repaint, an epoxy primer should be the first step as this is not hydroscopic and seals the surface.