Clutch not “working

[Andyhereford]

For various reasons my daughter’s Minor has not been used over the winter.
She went to start it up today. It started first time but the clutch would not let her select any gears. The clutch was working fine.
Looking in the book the clutch adjustment would seem a good place for me to start.
Can any body suggest anything else that I should look at.
My daughters initial fear was that the clutch would need replacing, which of course it might well do, but I can’t see how the clutch could have worn out / deteriorated simply through the car having been standing idle for a few months.
( The car is a standard 1963 Morris Minor 4 door)
As always thanks for any help / suggestions.

[paul 300358]

Search for a thread called clutch pedal travel.

[ManyMinors]

The problem is almost certainly a stuck (sometimes called frozen) clutch. Basically a little corrosion has stuck the clutch plate in position through lack of use. Generally easily cured. Run the engine to get it warm. Once warm, you might find that is sufficient but generally you have to be a little brutal. If you have space around you and a little confidence you can start the car in gear and it'll drive away. Be very careful doing this though!!
Others might suggest starting the car while jacked up and then letting the jack down etc.... I'd be very surprised if you had to replace the clutch though.

[Bill_qaz]

Once you have checked the clutch mechanism is moving freely. Put it in gear, hand brake on and chock wheels. Hold the clutch to floor, with ignition off manually turn the engine to try and free the clutch, if possible with spanner on crank so you can rock it both ways. If you manage to move the engine then try starting in gear but be prepared if car tries to move.

[myoldjalopy]

As above, almost certainly a stuck clutch from sitting idle. The adjustment isn't going to go out through sitting still all winter. As 'ManyMinors' suggests, getting the engine warmed up may be enough to free it. Or it may need to be shocked apart as already suggested. It will come free in the end.

[Andyhereford]

As always a big thanks for all the advice.
Went around to me daughter this morning, got the car started and warmed up, turned off the engine, selected second gear, and then tried to start the engine in gear. At the second “stall” there was a pleasant clunk from the gear box “tunnel” and the clutch was free.
I will make sure that she uses the car regularly in the future.
Thanks Again

[ManyMinors]

Excellent news
One thing which might be worth checking: Just have a look at the heater tap/valve at the back of the cylinder head and make sure it is not leaking at all. If it leaks a little, the coolant can enter the clutch housing below and contribute towards the dampness which can lead to the clutch rusting....
Yes, these cars are better for being used regularly
I try to keep mine off the road when salt is around but other than that, use it regularly

[olonas]

During the winter "lay up", and my car isn't out on the road, I try to excercise the clutch pedal regularly, press the footbrake pedal a few times and apply the handbrake a few times even without starting the engine. I keep the handbrake released and chock the wheels, front and rear.
Not ideal, but I do run the engine occasionally and drive the car out of and back into the garage a few times to make sure the wheel bearings/propshaft are turned and the tyres park in a different position. Or sometimes push it out and back without starting the engine.

[Myrtles Man]

Anther approach might be to hold the clutch pedal to the floor with a length of four by two (or similar) wedged up against the driver's seat.

[olonas]

Anther approach might be to hold the clutch pedal to the floor with a length of four by two (or similar) wedged up against the driver's seat.

Might be an idea to disconnect the return spring using that method?

[oliver90owner]

Anther approach might be to hold the clutch pedal to the floor with a length of four by two (or similar) wedged up against the driver's seat.

Might be an idea to disconnect the return spring using that method?

Why? As long as the spring is not extended beyond its compliance with Hooke’s Law, it would not be damaged. Valve springs, at least one can be fully compressed for years while an engine remains stored.

[olonas]

Well, if someone came up with a"law" and took various stuff, including opiates it wouldn't inspire much confidence for me.
You will note that I said "might". A suggestion rather than an instruction. Also the addition of a ? at the end.

[svenedin]

Even if a spring is not stretched beyond its elastic limit the elastic modulus can change over time especially if the spring is held in tension over prolonged periods. I believe this property is called "creep". Watchmakers and clockmakers call such springs "tired" or "set". Such springs do not return to their original length/shape when the tension is removed.

Stephen

[Andyhereford]

Dear All. Thanks for all the comments about blocks of wood, disconnecting the return spring and Hooks Law….that takes me back to “Sid “ Pierce’ 5th form physics lessons at Lewes County Grammar School…happy days. For me I will solve this problem by simply nagging my daughter to use her car regularly throughout the year. That should prevent a reoccurrence of the problem.

[svenedin]

Dear All. Thanks for all the comments about blocks of wood, disconnecting the return spring and Hooks Law….that takes me back to “Sid “ Pierce’ 5th form physics lessons at Lewes County Grammar School…happy days. For me I will solve this problem by simply nagging my daughter to use her car regularly throughout the year. That should prevent a reoccurrence of the problem.

Good idea. I understand why people don't want to take their cars out when there is salt on the roads or in really foul weather but quite often there are days in winter when a quick run in the Morris is a pleasant experience. It's a seize the opportunity type thing.

Stephen

[les]

Hooke’s Law, some folk are so heducated, I only know of Sods Law.