Bracing
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:28 pm
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Bracing
Hi
We often have to brace customers vehicles during restoration and normally use 3/4" (19mm) tube or 20 x 20mm box section bot in a 1.6mm section,
Yes bigger tube/box is stronger but to big can get in the way as you work, and shouldn't be needed if enough diagonals are used.
Remember that the strength is in the diagonals that you create as much as the tube itself,
If for example you are bracing a door apature you go from bottom of the door "A" post to top of the "B"post and then top of "A" to bottom of "B" post forming diagonals that are very strong (remember to weld the two tubes where they cross each other as well) as that gives even more strength,
Basically triangles are your friend here.
If you are bracing a door apature remember to make sure the bracing is positioned so that you can still get the door back on and have access to cut and replace what ever has rotted out without removing the bracing.
But no matter what you use to brace the vehicle always brace with doors etc fitted so you know you have good panel fit at the start of the work (then remove the panels) and check as you go through the welding that everything is still fitting correctly as welding can pull a shell around especially if your repair panels are not a perfect fit and require "flexing" to get them to fit correctly.
Hope that helps
Steve
We often have to brace customers vehicles during restoration and normally use 3/4" (19mm) tube or 20 x 20mm box section bot in a 1.6mm section,
Yes bigger tube/box is stronger but to big can get in the way as you work, and shouldn't be needed if enough diagonals are used.
Remember that the strength is in the diagonals that you create as much as the tube itself,
If for example you are bracing a door apature you go from bottom of the door "A" post to top of the "B"post and then top of "A" to bottom of "B" post forming diagonals that are very strong (remember to weld the two tubes where they cross each other as well) as that gives even more strength,
Basically triangles are your friend here.
If you are bracing a door apature remember to make sure the bracing is positioned so that you can still get the door back on and have access to cut and replace what ever has rotted out without removing the bracing.
But no matter what you use to brace the vehicle always brace with doors etc fitted so you know you have good panel fit at the start of the work (then remove the panels) and check as you go through the welding that everything is still fitting correctly as welding can pull a shell around especially if your repair panels are not a perfect fit and require "flexing" to get them to fit correctly.
Hope that helps
Steve
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- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Mon Sep 11, 2023 7:35 pm
- Location: Nottinghamshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Bracing
Hi thanks for your advice Steve that will help me alot as I have never done this before, thanks for leaving me such a good reply. Thanks Shane
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:28 pm
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Bracing
Your welcome
If you want anymore information or have any questions feel free to post here or pm me.
I've seen too many cars twisted and ruined during restoration and have ended up salvaging several for over enthusiastic customers over the years.
So my advice "slowly slowly". And if you're new to welding don't try to weld you project straight away, practice practice and practice some more on some spare steel sheet until you can get a good weld.
Best of luck with your project
Steve
If you want anymore information or have any questions feel free to post here or pm me.
I've seen too many cars twisted and ruined during restoration and have ended up salvaging several for over enthusiastic customers over the years.
So my advice "slowly slowly". And if you're new to welding don't try to weld you project straight away, practice practice and practice some more on some spare steel sheet until you can get a good weld.
Best of luck with your project
Steve