1949 PCD
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All the MM's & first few serise II cars had morris dirived running gear, which is different to the later Austin sourced parts common to A30 etc, the brakes & hubs are different designs although the same size.
The 4,5" PCD is common to mainy other Morris & MG cars of the period & later, and even the early toyota celica! I used the 4J wheels from a 62 morris oxford which take the Minor1000 hubcaps, although i had to modify the angle of the taperd part of the bolt to match the wheel. I have seen period photos with what look like MG A 15" wheels fitted.
The bolts are fragile but not a fragile as the MM wheel, I have have seen several cars loose their wheels! this is because the hole in the wheel centre is not to too strong & opens up with wear untill the bolt pulls through!
The Solution i employed was to manufacture a special tapered washer to sit under the bolt head & make up for the lost metal.
I have also seen hardened studs (with nuts) from modern cars inserted into the holes in the brake drum/hub. an option to considder if you have a stripped thread & no spare, unfortunatley a common probelm when a garrage uses powerful air tools to tighten the bolts!
The 4,5" PCD is common to mainy other Morris & MG cars of the period & later, and even the early toyota celica! I used the 4J wheels from a 62 morris oxford which take the Minor1000 hubcaps, although i had to modify the angle of the taperd part of the bolt to match the wheel. I have seen period photos with what look like MG A 15" wheels fitted.
The bolts are fragile but not a fragile as the MM wheel, I have have seen several cars loose their wheels! this is because the hole in the wheel centre is not to too strong & opens up with wear untill the bolt pulls through!
The Solution i employed was to manufacture a special tapered washer to sit under the bolt head & make up for the lost metal.
I have also seen hardened studs (with nuts) from modern cars inserted into the holes in the brake drum/hub. an option to considder if you have a stripped thread & no spare, unfortunatley a common probelm when a garrage uses powerful air tools to tighten the bolts!
Maybe I should point out that the idea of adding a tapered washer is to prevent the problem, not to repair a damaged wheel!
The idea is that a washer (thin enough not to prevet the bolt thread engaging in the wheel), will provide a sacraficial wear surface & prevent the holes becoming worn from repeted weel removal to the point where the bolt is loose in the wheel.
I started with soft mild seteel washers simply formed under the bolt, & a dab of loctite to stop them dropping off when the bolt was undone, I was not to happy as the washers often cracked, so I had a set of special taperd washers made, my wheels seam to have survived without the holes getting worn.
If you never take them off then there is no wear!
The idea is that a washer (thin enough not to prevet the bolt thread engaging in the wheel), will provide a sacraficial wear surface & prevent the holes becoming worn from repeted weel removal to the point where the bolt is loose in the wheel.
I started with soft mild seteel washers simply formed under the bolt, & a dab of loctite to stop them dropping off when the bolt was undone, I was not to happy as the washers often cracked, so I had a set of special taperd washers made, my wheels seam to have survived without the holes getting worn.
If you never take them off then there is no wear!