Morris Minor Owners Club

philthehill wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 3:47 pm I would suggest that a 'Dowty' seal would be no good as a seal between the tap and the base due to the indentations in the base of the ESM tap.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/cooli ... e-p1238127

A soft copper washer which is a reasonably close fit over the tap threads with some Loctite seal and lock smeared on the tap threads would be a much better option

I fitted mine to get the angle right on a 940 head, it is fitted very loose to get the angle right, it's not had a problem in over 4 years. The tap has been unscrewed from the base twice. I did try the fiber washer that came with the tap but the hose outlet pointed at the battery box.

Paul,

Is the base only able to fit in one orientation? Could it not have been turned 180 degrees?

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 11:06 pm Paul,

Is the base only able to fit in one orientation? Could it not have been turned 180 degrees?

Yes, it can fit 180 deg round, but then the outlet would have pointed at the rocker cover.

Gates nylon pipe connectors are used for joining my coolant pipe though most nylon pipe connectors are suitable. The link in my post above has suitable reducers.

The Gates connectors I use were supplied by Dorset Auto spares via 'e' bay.

https://www.dorsetautospares.com/

paul 300358 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 10, 2020 9:55 am

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 11:06 pm Paul,

Is the base only able to fit in one orientation? Could it not have been turned 180 degrees?

Yes, it can fit 180 deg round, but then the outlet would have pointed at the rocker cover.

The answer, then is to fit another washer of suitable thickness. A solid washer of 1/4 or 3/4 thread pitch would suffice.

Me? I would simply punch out a washer from a piece of suitable gasket material. Dowty washers are designed to be tightened firmly.

I fitted a plastic VAG one in the hose, works well, only problem is it works back to front so pull for heat rather than push.

Thanks all much appreciated

I used the Siroco (French) valve on my MG TD. It is available from T7 design in 19, 16 and 15mm and in push to close or pull to close. It is a very smooth operating valve and I have had no issues with it. You can connect it using the stub shown above and a 90° bend.
https://www.t7design.co.uk/products/acc ... m-1-2.html
Regards
Declan

That looks fairly smart Declan thanks for the link

I cut the base off the broken heater valve leaving a couple of mm of the body to form a ridge to retain the hose. Seems to be working fine.

That valve was my solution to a heater valve, much better and no trouble for 3 years now.

mowogg wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 8:49 pm As an alternative I have fitted a 3 way valve inline to the heater. I use the 5/8 outlet from the block into a 3 way valve. This either feeds the heater or if closed keeps the water circulating back to the block.

It's worked OK for a couple of years now. The one I bought was for a London taxi.

I've got one of these, but I'm scratching my head as to how to mount it on the car. How did you fit yours?

Cheers N

I'm about to give up on my London taxi heater bypass valve. I just can't find a way to mount it without having impractically short lengths of hose, with tight radius bends. It has 16mm connections, I have a 16mm stub connection in the block, and I have ½" adapters to connect to the heater radiator and to the return pipe into the bottom hose.
Has anyone got any suggestions, before I ditch it for something else?
Cheers N