Morris Minor Owners Club

The hub nut (1 7/8") and the camshaft nut (1 5/16") are two different sizes so the one socket cannot be used to do both nuts.

My 1 & 7/8 socket arrived and after acquiring a short length of 1" square steel bar I've now removed the nut and also, after a bit of a struggle, the hub. Next job is to remove the bearing - how do I go about that? Any and all hints, tips, warnings, bitter experiences etc warmly welcomed.

philthehill wrote: ↑Fri Oct 01, 2021 6:16 pm The hub nut (1 7/8") and the camshaft nut (1 5/16") are two different sizes so the one socket cannot be used to do both nuts.

Just realised that after I wrote it! Think I used a 33mm for that.

Getting old and forgetful!

Perhaps I should re-phrase my most recent post; what I'm trying to find out is whether or not I can safely remove the bearing and re-use it or is it just a case of going at it with something like a cold chisel then fitting a new one?

As regards re-using the bearing - if there is no roughness or play in the bearing the bearing can be re-used.
As for using a chisel to remove the hub nut - it can be done but how are you going to do up the new nut? Personally I would wait until until you have the correct spanner. I do not recommend using a chisel to tighten the nut. The nut should be done up tight but not gorilla tight . There is no specified torque for the hub nut.
Make sure that you undo the hub nut the right way. The N/S hub nut has a L/H thread.

Thanks for your response Phil but, er, a little misunderstanding has crept in. I've removed the nut and the hub, as per my previous post, and I'm now trying to work out how to remove the bearing from the hub itself. The bearing has only done 400 odd miles so it seems a pity to scrap it if it can be avoided.

Thanks for the clarification.
To remove the bearing just turn the hub upside-down and resting on and between two pieces of wood and with a large socket inserted into the rear of the hub and resting on the centre race gently knock the bearing out.

Ah, thanks for that Phil. I had assumed that I would need to apply the removal force against the outer race so as not to damage the bearing but, of course, there's no way (that I can see) of getting a drift on the outer race.

You are right in that there is no way you can get to the outer race to remove the bearing - you have apply force to the centre race.
So long as you do not go at it hammer and tongs the bearing will come out of the hub without any damage. Just mind the ball bearing cage.
Of course the best way of removing the bearing is with a press but if you do not have a press knocking out the bearing as described is acceptable.

Why do you want to remove the bearing.

To get the seal out and clean up the whole area, fit a new seal and, I hope, stem the flow of hypoid oil into the hub. I might add that I had the job done by 'professionals' when I got the car and saw the oil on the brake shoes etc but, within four hundred miles of use it was as bad as, or even worse than before the 'repair'. Purely for the purpose of gauging his reaction, I went back and had a word with the guy who did the job and his response was that it probably needed a replacement hub but he doesn't have one at present; he said he'd experienced it before and a new hub cured it. I wasn't convinced but, clearly, there was no mileage in trying to take the matter further with him so I decided to have a go at it myself, with the priceless help of philthehill and others on this forum.

Anyway, many thanks Phil - I followed your instructions (I also warmed up the hub over the kitchen gas ring) and the undamaged bearing drifted out easily enough, ready for re-installation after replacement of the seal.

You could use a vice as the press, using a suitable size socket. Oops sorry just realised you’ve done it !!!

Assuming the axle housing is not worn where the seal works the common cause of early seal failure is it was running dry. Be sure to apply some grease to the lip of the seal when reassembling.

Thanks for that tip jaekl, I was wondering whether or not I should put a smear of grease round it before assembly.

Well, this job is proving to be anything but straightforward. Latest snag is my inability to get the old seal out of the hub. I've tried pushing it out with a screwdriver, pulling it out with a pair of pliers and cutting through it with a craft knife, none of which efforts have had the slightest effect. I'm coming to the conclusion that it's been stuck in with superglue or something similar.

Two questions:-
1) is this normal?
2) how do I get the damn thing out?

It is normal unfortunately.
Do not try and drive a screwdriver or similar between the hub and seal from the outer face. If you mark the hub the seal will not work.
Put the hub outer face down and try and get the screwdriver or similar to make contact with the metal. Carefully drive the metal part of the seal downwards/outwards. You may find it easier to mount the hub by the wheel stud flange in a vice (with soft vice grips) so as to get a good angle of contact with the seal.
It will come but may take some effort.
Good luck.

Thanks Phil for explaining the recommended approach and also for the reassurance of the normality of the problem. I'll renew my attack in the way you outline but this time with a more confident attitude! Is it likely that some sort of adhesive has been used previously (and, if so, do I also need to follow suit with the replacement) or are these seals just an extremely tenacious interference fit?

The seal has a steel core surrounded by neoprene which provides plenty of grip and makes removal difficult.
It will come out.
There is no need for any adhesive or any other sticky stuff with the neoprene coated seal. Just give the seal a good coat of grease to help it slip into the hub. Make sure that you fit the seal the right way round.
Good luck.

Thanks. Will do.

Check the axles casing. Sometimes the bearing seal will wear a grove in the axle tube. If that is present, then it can be sleeved to provide a clean surface for the seal to run on. You can also offset the new seal from the old position slightly so that it runs on a clean piece of axle tube.