Rear gearbox seal

[Classiccars]

Hi it advises on the link only good for 998 engine and will not fit 1275.

[philthehill]

This is the clutch driven plate that is used with the 1275cc engine Marina and type 9 gearbox.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... a-p1239177
The link is correct (but not fully descriptive) when it says it will not fit the 948cc. 1098cc or 1275cc (1275cc Midget/Sprite) 'A' Series engines as their flywheels are different.
You have to use the modified flywheel.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... s-p1239064
I suspect that your engine may already be fitted with the modified flywheel as the clutch driven plate used with the type 9 gearbox is 7.5" dia and has 23 spines in its centre drive boss.
I have a Ford based gearbox in my Minor and went down this conversion road in the very early days of mating Ford gearboxes to the 'A' Series so have experienced many of the pitfalls with this conversion which have now been overcome with the readily availability of modified parts and information.
Again - until you strip out the parts you will not be able to positively determine what replacement parts are required.

[oliver90owner]

Oh dear, two threads, this one swapping from seals to clutches.

Please do note my comment, to Les, on the other thread.

Les,

You noted, on the concurrent thread, that there was some uncertainty of the actual components in this power train. It may well be that the clutch fitted is also of inappropriate dimensions (or type) to transmit the torque available?

I think I may be right in thinking that? As far back as the 1960s, we always changed the clutch, on our Fords, to one which was capable of transmitting the increased torque of the more powerful engines (that we invariably installed).

[philthehill]

Whilst there may be some mixing and matching of threads it is all relative to the same power/transmission train and questions asked by the same OP. So does it really mater if threads get intertwined?
I suspect that the components used i.e. clutch assy are already correct but worn or oil contaminated.

[Classiccars]

Thank you Phil as you say that is the one.I will have to wait until they have it in again or search elsewhere for one but will get that one.Not so exited about changing the rear engine seal as before the engine problems it was not a concern.What we think may have happened is when the was loosing oil it may have got on to the clutch but just a guess.Anyway I thought if it can be checked when the clutch is fitted.It was advised if there is not a hole for oil to leave the bottom of the clutch area to drill one.Can it be advised or show where that would be drilled if required please

[les]

I think Phil mentioned drilling at the lowest point, in the aluminium casing.

[Classiccars]

Thank you Les directly under the clutch I guess

[Classiccars]

Is it possible thar oil ingress could get on the clutch bearing as don't want to buy one unless it could be affected please

[philthehill]

Just a thought - is your release bearing a carbon thrust? It may be a roller or ball bearing release bearing. The release bearing fitted to my Ford derived gearbox is a ball bearing release.
Look through the aperture for the LHD clutch lever and see what you have.
The release bearing may be one of these:-
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ch-p829573
If it is - no problem and you do not have to worry about oil contamination.

[Classiccars]

Will do thank you

[Classiccars]

Further to my recent posts I have been under the car.I take it that adjusting the piston will.not help the slipping clutch before I change it.

[Classiccars]

I have added some pictures of the leak and some of the clutch .Is it possible to advise on the clutch bearing from the pictures please.

[philthehill]

You appear to have a carbon thrust. How much thrust pad is left is hard to see as it is recessed into the clutch pressure plate centre.
See enlarged and correctly orientated picture below

thrust 24.jpg (1.33 MiB) Viewed 738 times

It is all very oily. There should be no oil within the bellhousing.
I suspect that the oil is coming from the rear main or oil pump cover.
You may even have a cracked rear engine plate which will allow the oil to drain from the oil pump. Cracked rear engine plates are not uncommon especially with 1275cc Midget/Sprite rear engine plates or 1098cc rear engine plates that have been modified to fit and use with a 1275cc engine.
The carbon thrust retaining clip is either displaced or fitted the wrong way round.
To reiterate the above you need to remove the gearbox, examine what you have, replace what needs to be replaced and then refit the gearbox.
You could slacken off the clutch slave rod so as to give around 1/4" free movement at the outer end of the release arm and see what happens but that oil leak does need to be sorted.

To add a bit more evidence to the Morris Marina engine theory - you have a Morris Marina sump which has had the sump strengthening plate shortened. The plate connects with the Marina gearbox housing to stop any engine to gearbox flexing. The plate is not required when you have a Ford gearbox conversion.

[Classiccars]

Thank you Phil am I right in saying I have the bearing that is unaffected by oil.If so great.I am unaware of any crackingvas the engine has just been out and I was not advised of any issue.I will try loosening the piston to see any change as the clutch was OK before the engine out.The mechanic advised plenty of clutch left so that is why I am going on oil ingress so will change the rear seal and clutch plate and as them to clean the whole area incase of oil.When I looked for a seal it did not show the part you advised to bend over to keep the seal in.I guess esm do them so I will have to ask when I get the clutch from them of the have the whole thing.

[philthehill]

As I said above - you appear to have the carbon release bearing which can be effected by oil.
The bend over seal is the seal fitted to a Minor gearbox - you will have to get a seal from a Ford or Type 9 gearbox parts supplier. I did post a link for a spare parts supplier above.

[Classiccars]

Thanks for your patience. More expense I guess

[Classiccars]

Please can you also clarify.The rear engine oil seal fits on the 1275 engine.Why would I need to go to a supplier of type 9 gearboxes.Forgive my confusion.

[les]

This thread is not clear to me, I’m not sure who is doing this second rebuild, it sounds like a third party will be, is that right ? If so hopefully not the one who did the first build ! Again if it’s a third party, will you take the complete vehicle to them or remove the engine/gearbox before delivering it to whoever? The reason I ask is because if you are unsure of the parts needed, maybe you’d be better leaving the buying of the required parts to the rebuilder. Of course that requires you having in mind a competent company/mechanic that you trust. If, in fact I’m wrong and you’re going to rebuild the assembly yourself, then don’t buy anything until it’s striped and you visually see what parts to buy. I see this as being the common sense approach. As I think I’ve mentioned, there’s too much guessing over this.

[Classiccars]

Thanks yes it's another builder for the clutch.Just trying to get all the info to make a decision.Will ask them if they are understanding the parts I need first.

[philthehill]

The 1275cc engine unless it is a Maestro based engine or has a rear crankshaft seal conversion does not have a lip seal just the return scroll.
The reference to the Type 9 gearbox is because as I read the thread your gearbox output shaft seal is leaking and you want a seal to replace the faulty seral.
This thread is totally confusing and as we keep saying strip out the gearbox, see what you have and replace what needs to be replaced.