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Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 1:48 pm
by davidmiles
There had been a blue cover on her at one time, seemed a shame to leave her uncovered, so we put it back so she can rust in peace.

<br>Image<br>

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 3:37 pm
by ssnjimb
I wish someone would please reserect her.

All minors deserve reserecting.

One day someone will make that decision on our minors when we are sadly not around anymore (Brings a tear to my eye)

James

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:57 pm
by aupickup
let it rust in peace

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:36 pm
by davidmiles
Today started with the removal of the support panel, to be kept for later repair..<br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:39 pm
by davidmiles
this patch was cut and shaped to fit the profile of the inner curve of the wheel arch.<br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:42 pm
by davidmiles
the location meant it was hard to fit a clamp, so I used electrical tape to hold it while I tacked it into place from the top side.<br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:46 pm
by davidmiles
the tacking from the top left the original hole locations ready for drilling to make accurate fitting of the bump stop panel.<br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:50 pm
by davidmiles
One thing that came to light today that worried me, this rust here, the wire wheel cleared away some rust to expose this little horror..<br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 4:57 pm
by davidmiles
The hole through the wheel arch that is opposite the damper, does this mean reduced support for the suspension, I guess I've got to get that damper off and see whats behind it, anyone know how that comes off?<br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:20 pm
by bigginger
Undo the 4 bolts passing through it that you can see, after bending back the lock tabs. 1/4" W, IIRC

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:29 pm
by davidmiles
Cheers Andrew, thats next on the cards then.
<br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 7:42 pm
by aupickup
hmm thats looks a bit more involved, and it is the main structural point for the front suspension of course

soak the bolts in plus gas or apply heat to get them out, you do not want the captive nuts behind being wrecked

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:05 pm
by bigginger
Threaded plates, FWIW, but it's a GOOD point

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:13 pm
by aupickup
yes sorry threaded plates quite right :D :D

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:23 pm
by rayofleamington
the location meant it was hard to fit a clamp, so I used electrical tape to hold it while I tacked it into place from the top side.
my favourite tool for that job is a hammer handle (wooden - and charred if it's mine).
If you have a hand held mask it means you have no hand left to hold it (although that never bothered me for 18 years) it is far easier when you have a fully auto head mask as you then have a free hand for things like that.
Electrical tape, a big magnet and many other things can be useful to hold a patch - including the jack if you're under the car.

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:35 am
by davidmiles
Thanks Ray, I couldn't hold it from the other side, but I did enlist the help of a length of jammed up timber to put pressure on the plate, it needed to be held hard up against the wheelarch to make a good contact. And yes, just like your hammer handle, it was a little charred.

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:39 am
by davidmiles
Dennis and Andrew, I dashed out to check the bolt I had drawn out from the damper was full length, I remember it went kind of sudden, it sheared off the tip of the bolt, the tip is now stuck in this captive plate you mention, not seen it yet, tommorow. how I'm going to get that tip out? I don't know yet.

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:42 am
by bigginger
Oh damn.I've never had any luck with that problem, I'm afraid. I've tried the easy outs in the past, but without luck. I meant to say earlier that you should be V careful using heat on them, as the bolts are long and the heat will be heating up the oil in the damper. The plate is sort of get at-able through the flitch if you cut a hole, but not really enough to be useful, except spray/dribble on penetrating oil - which could be worth a shot before trying the other bolts. I can't really advise on the almost inevitable replacement of the plate though - somebody here must have managed it. I couldn't see a way without cutting out the front of the bulkhead X member, but didn't/don't trust my welding skills enough to do the repair/replacement. All I can advise is waiting for a pro (IE JLH, surprise) who will probably have more helpful things to say.

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:03 pm
by jaekl
Mid way through Series III they added fresh air vent. The inlet are holes in the back side of the crossmember where the shocks are mounted. I assume the Series V cars still have these holes. Once you can flip the cab over, you will be able to spray your penetrating oil onto the ends of the bolts or apply heat if you must. I believe the outboard bolts are easier to get to than the inner ones. I got a nut on the end of one of the bolts through this hole. The previous owner drilled out the bolt and oversized the hole.

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:22 pm
by davidmiles
The bolts are putting up one hell of a fight, "what the hell have I started here".
number 1 sheared of its tip in the plate, number two has frozen and threatens to shear off, three kind of jumps in a series of bangs. and number four, well I can't get at it yet...<br>Image<br>