windows

[brit]

could somebody please tell me how to remove windows easily please, also where all travellers 1275cc or alot or something? I know I sound silly but I think I wred somewhere that most or all travellers were but I can't remember.

Thanks

Chris

[Cam]

Travellers started as 803cc in 1953, in 1956 they were upgraded to 948cc and then finally in 1962 they were upgraded to 1098cc.

No Minors were ever produced with 1275cc engines.

[brit]

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah I see *slaps forehead* doh! ah well I'll just nab the windows and things then and possibley the engine

[Gareth]

Remove windows easily? Can't be done, mate!

You can get 'em out, but it won't be easy! You'll need to take the door trim panels off, and then looking upwards into the door, remove about three nuts from studs on the bottoms of the window frames.

There's not much room up there, even less light, and at least one of the studs with snap.

If it's a car that's being broken, it might be better to have the doors, and try to sort it out in your own time when you get back home.

If its the side windows you want getting out, then you'll need someone with a traveller to help. I think it might be that you need to take the channel out from either the top or bottom, and then try and shimmy the glass out....

Not an easy job, either, I don't think...

[simmitc]

Like most work on the car, Traveller window removal is simple if all is pristine, or harder work if the car hasn't been touched for many years. Simplest & easiest of all is if it's a write off with rotton wood!!

Front doors - see comments from Gareth.

Rear doors - there are fillets of wood on the inside of the glass, held in place by small screws. Undo screws, remove fillets, push glass gently from outside and catch it inside. Sticky sealant has normally lost it's stickiness. Screws often break, but fillets can still be levered away.

Side windows - from inside car, remove central rail cover, many small screws & sometimes the clips for the back seat bolts (yes bolts, not belts). Remove exposed metal catches and anything else that appears to be in the way. The lower channel can now either be flattened or found to have disintegrated. Either way, carefully easy the bottoms of the windows into the car and then lower them away from the top. If the central rail is rotton then it will all come away anyway. If the rear post is rotton then the glass will be supported the roof - not good.

I've never had a window shatter, but would always recommend eye protection and covering any bare skin. Health is too important to take chances.

Refitting is another matter all together.....

[rayofleamington]

last and least - to remove the front window takes 2 minutes and a sharp stanley knife (with an adjustable or snap off blade if possible)
first pull the trim out of the rubber. Then cut the rubber away. Pull on the cut end of the rubber whilst cutting and it makes it 5 times easier/quicker.
If the car is biengs scrapped, just mind your fingers with the blade. If the car isn't being scrapped, then keep the blade as short as possible and mind the paintwork!

For the door windows, as Gareth mentioned you could just take the complete doors.
The traveller has stainless steel door tops, which are quite sought after. (I'm after one for £20, to make a pair).
Ray.

[MrA.Series]

Health is too important to take chances

I thought a phrase like that would have come from nickthenurse!

[Chris Morley]

I agree with Gareth - removing the window from a door is time consuming and you'll probably get at least one seized nut (probably the one under the quarterlight) . You'll need a ratchet set with a 6 & 12 inch extension bar. Last time I did this was in 1999, but I recall that a set of 10mm-14mm heads did the job.

I would take the entire door if possible - if the lower edge isn't rusted then I'll be very interested in having it off you. I take it you're after the stainless steel frames?