STICK THE BOOT IN-Lake Coniston

[sloopjohnrb]

Please may I ask for your help with a long-standing problem!
My car is a March, 1962 4 door, 948cc.
Shortly after purchasing "Gladys", I decided to replace the BOOT LID SEAL as I'd noticed it was persished when I first inspected the car.

I bought a seal of the square rubber type that fits to the boot lid.
This alas did not keep the rain out entirely.

I was then told to buy the type of thin rubber seal that affixes to the
bodywork-the lip of the boot.
This last item is even worse and the boot-well resembles Lake Coniston.

I've been given so much conflicting advice ( NOT from the MMOC by the way) in that different people have championed the 2 different seals.

Something to note is that the ORIGINAL seal that had worn away, did not seem to be rubber-rather it looked like a fabric , or twill.
This being the case I am now confused!

I would welcome advice on
A. The correct seal.
B. Whether the advertised "sponge type " seal is the same thing as the
square rubber one.
C. Tips on attaching the correct seal.

Very best wishes,
sloopjohn rb.
FEP 726

[MrA.Series]

The minor was orginally fitted with fabric-like seal on the doors as well as the boot. Most people replace these fabric ones with full rubber ones, unless they want their car to be totally original, so they use the reproduction fabric ones.

The boot seal that fits to the body work was the original idea for the Minor, but got phased out and replaced by a more effective seal that fits onto the bootlid. I don't know what date the change over period was, so I can't tell you which one is correct for oyur car.

Have you tried it with both seals fitted:- One on the lid and one on the body? Could the water be coming in anywhere else, like from under the hinges, badge holes, seaping in between the wing and body through any unused captive nut holes?

[rayofleamington]

between the wing and body through any unused captive nut holes

between the wing and the body is very common - but the water usually makes its own holes!

In the short term I would make some 1/2" drain holes - one at each corner of the boot well. If the problem is eventually fixed, you can add some 1/2" grommets to the holes.

[MrA.Series]

between the wing and the boy is very common - but the water usually makes its own holes!

...said the actress to the bishop.

[Willie]

I fitted the sponge rubber type to my '57 boot lid and found
it impossible to shut the lid!! I then fitted the thin rubber type
which is perfect,and keeps the boot bone dry. During my
rebuild I also drilled four 5/16" drain holes in the rear of the
boot floor. The Minors do not have nearly enough drain holes
and half of those which ARE there are in the wrong place anyway.

[Scott]

Some of the parts sold by the Morris Minor centres are rubbish.

Take for instance boot lid seals & 948cc tail light gaskets (base to body).
I bought these from one of the main centres (the one Cam uses mainly at shows !!!) & had sent out to Australia in the belief that they'd be superior to the items made locally (in Aust.).
I was very disappointed in both of these products.
(I must point out that the other 99% of parts purchased have been very good quality).


The boot seal was a very hard square/rectangular section of foam & the tail light gaskets were simply flat rubber sheet that didn't even fit (needed trimming to suit).
The rubber boot seal made here is the same size as the foam seal but is hollow in the centre thereby squashing at lot easier as well as providing an effective seal.
I have never had too much success with the early seal fitted to the body. It eventually distorts badly & is often difficult to secure with adhesive.

The tail light gaskets made here have a beaded edge just like the originals.

The fuel filler grommet is always a good water entry point.


Mr A Series, I have never seen the fabric type seals fitted to the boot. Do you mean the same type as the door seals (pinchweld) or something else?

[MrA.Series]

Yeah, I think thats what I mean?...

Er, kinda like the original fabric door seals fitted round the bodywork, with the little metal clips inside. Always a pain to refit. Well, that was what was fitted to my 1963 4-door.