Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm having issues removing my offside rear hub nut. It has previously been chisel and hammered off and on in the past by the look of it.

My questions are.. which way should it slacken? lefty loosy? which would make sense to me so that when driving forward it tightens? ps I don't have the correct removal tool or a big enough spanner!

and the next one is.. the locking washer is not moving at all! i was told I think that it sits in a grove on the nut and you have to get it out of the grove, how??? I've had a screwdriver at it and it's now damaged.

and do I have to get the locking washer completely off before the nut will go anywhere?

The locking washer is definitely not playing ball.

Please help!! it's still sunny here and got a couple of hours to get stuff done!!!

ok. i've recently changed my hubs and bearings. you will find it easier if you use a 46mm socket (you'll need a 1" adaptor to fit onto your rachet handle). the drivers side does up clockwise. the passenger side does up anti-clockwise. the washer is only there for locking the nut in position and does indeed sit in a small 'channel'.

if the nut is f*****, then i'd file the flats down and get hold of/buy a proper socket. it saves so much aggro in the long run.

The lock washer needs to be knocked flat, clear of the nut.
Use a drift (bit of metal) if you have one, otherwise some gentle taps on a screwdriver will flatten it OK, it's soft and doesn't take much force.
It's only the first part of the turn of the nut that is tight, you need to give it a shock to get it loose.
Get the best fitting socket on there, tapped on with a hammer, the the longest lever you can on it, take up all the slack then give it a short sharp whack with a club hammer.
The rest you can do with your fingers.

dellerie wrote:use a 46mm socket .............................buy a proper socket. it saves so much aggro in the long run.

Make your mind up

The correct socket/spanner is 1,1/8W readily available on ebay/autojumbles - 1,7/8AF is very close & works also.

I've sold my stock of these

Rog

HarryMango wrote:

dellerie wrote:use a 46mm socket .............................buy a proper socket. it saves so much aggro in the long run.

Make your mind up

The correct socket/spanner is 1,1/8W readily available on ebay/autojumbles - 1,7/8AF is very close & works also.

I've sold my stock of these

Rog

i have made my mind up. i use a 46mm socket and it fits fine.

Cheers folks, ill get on and buy the tool, and new washer also. So just to clear up the washer side of things, once bent over out of the way it is ruined so I would have to get a replacement anyway? And why do I have to bend it out of the way if I can get a spanner on the nut that is protruding already?
Tia

You need a socket for this job, or a ring spanner.
The lock washer just needs to be flat, not destroyed, a fresh bit of it will work just as well as the first use.

It's about angles and mechanical advantage how these things work.

The lock washer is designed to 'lock' it - it's doing it's job. A good chisel has always worked fine for me...... Sharp tap with a heavy hammer - but first the lock washer MUST be tapped clear.....

i believe that not all hub nuts are the same size. originals are one size, and remade ones are different.

1 7/8 inches and 47mm come to mind, but i cant be sure. best to measure the nuts you've got before you go buying the wrong spanner!

the lock washer looks like this:

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pop ... dbe5554e34

the little semi circle on the inside edge is the only thing that locates it, but you still need to make sure that the washer is clear of the nut to allow the nut to turn. the washer won't come off before the nut, so you've got to open it out and leave it there while you undo the nut.

I sometimes use a hydraulic jack pushing the end of a spanner to start really stuck nuts and bolts.

Got a spanner 1,1/8w. got the nut off! Although a socket would have been easier because of the the four wheel bolts. Now to figure out how to get the bearing and oil seal out. I'll do a search!

Just tap them out using a brass drift.

being a complete novice, can you explain this as i have no idea what you are talking about? any pictures would be a great help!

the bearing you can get out but clamping the hub in a vice with the oil seal facing upwards and tapping it out with a hammer and large screw driver. it should come out quite easy. the seal you can just dig out with whatever. always worked for me

A brass 'drift' is just a bit of bar that you use under the hammer to tap the bearing and seal out with - the brass means you won't do any damage to the bearing or the hub since it is relatively soft. Also saves the screwdriver taking a beating.......

Cheers for all the replies, things are taking shape on my brake overhaul. Seem to be piecing together what actually is going on behind those wheels! and what is all required to get them sorted!!!

So another very basic question, do i need to take the hub off in order to get the bearing and oil seal out? I'm 99% sure you do have to but thought I may as well ask as I'm sitting inside waiting for the chance to get out to the garage again!
TIA again!

Errr - YES! I assumed that was why you were undoing the nut..... Why do you want to renew the bearing and seal anyway?? I've never known one to need renewing yet!

Removed the hub using the half shaft on the wrong way technique, worked a treat! Then got the bearing out no bother at all, tapped out from the inside side using a spanner that was the right size to sit in the hole. Had it sitting down on a good thick bit of cardboard (which doubles as my knee pad!) so as not to damage the threads of the wheel bolts.

Just going in to a bit of detail so as to help others if they ever come across this thread and are a novice like me!

Not too sure how to get the seal out though?? Can i just go at it with a screwdriver? I don't want to damage anything.


I wish I had a decent sized garage/workshop so I could get a bench in there! oh well!

don't worry about the seal, you'll be binning it. dig the f***** out with the sharpest instrument you can get your hands on. then once out, burn it with a blow torch and finally boot it over the neighbours fence. it won't want to be near you again!

I'd say go easy with using sharp objects to dig the seal out.
If you mark the surface it goes into the new one will be harder to insert nice and square.