Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,

I'll confess now, I made this problem a lot worse [frame][/frame]

The nut was very stiff and rounded off with the wheel wrench so I thought I'd try and cut it off i.e. cut the sides off and knock whats left off with a screwdriver and hammer. As you can see, I've just made it worse. Tried mole grips first but got no grip. Tried a nut splitter but couldn't get the angle right.

Any suggestions pls? Cannot get any grip on it whatsoever. I guess I could use a dremel to cut the whole thing off as tight to the wheel as possible and hope the last bit is so weak I can pull the wheel off with some force. Need a new wheel bolt obviously.

Thanks

Matt

Is your wheel cracked around the stud hole ???
It certainly looks like a crack radiating way from the left of the nut and also towards the top centre when looking closely at your photo. If it is a new wheel is required.
Drill off the remains of the stud outside of the wheel, remove remaining nuts/wheel, knock out the remains of the stud and fit new stud.
When drilling use a pilot drill/hole and then use a 3/8" to drill the stud away.
As you can take the hub off it might be easier to take the wheel hub assy off for drilling.
Just be careful with the drill when getting close to the wheel (that is if the wheel is not cracked).

The wheel does look dodgy, and appears to have a grind mark around the centre hole, play safe and get a spare. Maybe the stud/nut didn't have a dab a of grease applied when put on !!! ------- sorry the devil made me do it.

thanks Phil and Les, I'll check out the surrounding area, I think they're just scratches but will definately check.

Drilling out the stud (Carefully ) is this weekends project!

Matt

If the wheel turns out to be damaged you might as well grind through the stud. I'm wondering if the stud may be too hard for drilling?

Is there enough room for a nut splitter in there?

Les
To answer your question re drilling:-
I have just put a 1/4" Dormer HS drill to the head of a NOS Minor wheel stud and it drills through the stud like butter even without the pilot hole.

If the hub/wheel is removed the head of the stud can be drilled out easier from the rear and then knocked through.
I would still use a pilot hole though to determine that the drilling is central to the stud.

Well I'm slightly surprised to hear that. When you say head of stud, I take it you do mean the head, ie the bit behind the hub?

Les
I was expecting it to be harder but as I said the drill cut through as if it was butter on a warm day.
I have attached scan of the drilled hole (bright centre) which is not all the way through but deep enough to confirm that the stud can be drilled.
I did take a proper digital photo when the stud was in the drill press being drilled which will replace the scan when I can get the digital photo processed.
Phil[frame][/frame]

The wheel looks scrap to me....the taper seat seems to be collapsed. Scrap it, don't take chances..