Engine mounting issues.

[bmcecosse]

The revving up / hunting just tells me there is an air leak - and your snapped stud rather confirms that.... As above - you're going to damage the engine (perhaps burn the pistons) running it out of tune like this. The HIF 44 will be fine - once you solve the air leak issues.

[akuchanny]

Hi Guys, I am kind of stuck with the broken stud until the new year. Is there a way to remove this without removing the head? Im pretty sure its flush to the block. Was distracted by a overly helpful neighbour whilst tightening and managed to sheer it. was very annoyed but only have myself to blame.

The HIf38 I have no idea what the needle is from memory, and I would have to pull the HIf44 from the carb to tell you. I do know it wa sthe one the guys at mini spares suggested for the 1275.

The exhaust is heating very very quickly and while adjusting the carb is getting close to cooking my hand. The timing set at this position seems to have the car driving and starting well, until it hits stop start traffic and then I get all the symptons of vaporisation. Even with the timing marks lined up I had similar problems.

A rolling road is a definate once everything else is sorted out, as I want to get the car tuned and set up properly. Had this done for the 948 orginally in the car when I had big vavle head with an lcb and the hif38 with a custom needle. Was a hugely different car after the session.

Im pretty sure its timing based, but without the marks, and setting bu ear and running up a incline I have still had the vaproiastion issue whilst in traffic in london. The fans kick in and out as they should but the car can be a real pig to drive unless its free moving traffic.

So first task is does any one know of a good place to get the stud removed whilst the head is on the car, in london, or bristol. or anywhere between that I could call into.

Thanks again.

Andy

[panky]

I had the same thing on my camper engine, the stud was just proud of the head but not enough to get anything on it So I got the mig out and built up a nice bit blob of pigeon poo onto the end of the broken stud until there was enough to knock an old socket onto it. The heat applied during the welding made it come out nice and easy Alternatively, if there's enough stud sticking out, you could try welding a nut onto the stub.

[bmcecosse]

Or just drill it out - plenty of room once the manifolds are removed - which you need to do anyway. Start with a small drill bit (1/8") and then gradually up till the stud 'shells out' . Odd that it snapped - I would have expected the brass nut to strip before the stud failed.