Morris Minor Owners Club

Thanks for the reply Declan, would you be able to make one for a Morris Minor with a side tap and sell to me? And if so how much ?

Thanks for the detailed reply Phil. I doubt my engine is going to leak as badly as that, I was really just curious what someone might do if they wanted to get a factory spec clearance on the scroll seal. I was wondering if anyone has thought of boring out the rear bearing cap in the area of the scroll interface and making up some form of heat resistant resin part ( 2 halves) that could potentially clamp in position and run really small clearances maybe even a slight interference with the scroll. That way the scroll mechanism could be maximised and the plastic / resin part could be replaceable. Just a thought.

Pucketsport
What would someone do if they wanted a factory spec scroll? - Spend a lot of money.
Fitting the steel 4 bolt centre main cap to my 1380cc engine was expensive enough.

I am certain that BMC never envisaged having to do anything about the rear main scroll - if it is worn just replace the engine.

What you have described is basically the oil seal conversion!
Having gone down the route of fitting a rear oil seal conversion and having it fail and which resulted in me having to spend a lot of money - I certainly would not go down that road again.
Phil

You could always fill the gap with JB Weld!
http://ttypes.org/ttt2/crankshaft-rear-oil-seal
Interesting - but absolutely no recommendation implied

Pucketsport,
As I mentioned i do not make the drip tray-it is made by Bryan Purves. I do the modification for the side exit. That tray is designed for the XPAG/XPEG/XPAW engine not the A-Series. You could make one from tin or brass sheet to fit the Minor which could be easily soldered together-I don't have the facilities to weld aluminium. The only thing I could supply is the bolt on boss with the brass tap and the level indicator.
Regards
Declan

Can someone tell me what the function of the split pin is in the drain hole/ breather of the bell housing ? ( Jiggle pin?)
Also I'm interested in the PCV valve mentioned, where can I get one for my 948cc ?

The purpose of the jiggle pin in the bottom of the bell housing is to keep the hole clear so that any oil that gets there can drain out.

The PCV valve kit is available from MOSS Europe:-

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogse ... =PCV+valve

Phil,
The PCV valve kit offered by Moss is very similar to the PCV valve that I tested initially which was from a Ford Pinto. It is basically just a non-return valve.
Although it helped reduce the oil leak, it was nowhere near as effective as the original 13H5191 BMC valve (also shown in the Moss link).
Anybody considering using this closed breather system should read through this explanation.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cv103.htm
The original valve, ex MGB, Sprite/Midget, Mini Cooper S, TR4A, is described as a "vacuum modulated flow control valve" and that is what I would recommend.

Regards
Declan

Declan
Thank you for the MG link.

My link as you say includes the BMC PVC valve Pt No: 13H5191 but as you are aware the installation of the BMC valve involves far more than just the PVC valve so I included the other two items so as to allow the installer to pick and mix their parts and how they choose to install a PVC valve system - that BMC PCV valve is not cheap & especially when you add up the total cost if you need the additional parts listed below.

For general info:-
If the BMC PCV valve is fitted correctly to a 948cc 'A' Series - so as to maximise the crankcase depression it involves drilling and tapping (5/8" UNF) the inlet manifold for the PVC take off pipe adapter (Pt No: 12H1405), the replacement of the front cam follower cover with the later 1098cc cover (Pt No: 12A1212) with oil separator, the replacement of the rocker cover with the non breather type (Pt No: 12A1196) with appropriate oil filler cap.
Also required is the PVC valve support bracket, the hose between the front cam follower cover and the PVC valve, the hose between manifold adapter and PVC valve.
Phil

I have had the crankshaft oil seal mod for 20 years and it has started to weep oil as discussed above. My crank was turned smooth mind before fitting the kit.
The oil seal was marked B63011312.

I am in the process of refitting the kit and I have obtained a Mazda MX5 transmission oil seal to replace the original seal. The new oil seal part no is BG Automotive OS3326 for Mazda & Kia cars, which is a lot cheaper than that sold for the A series through the specialists!

Equivalent oil seals are AJUSA: 15037300, HYUNDAI: 0K20111312, KIA: 0K20111312, MAZDA: 0K20111312, B63011312, BP0511312, BP0511315, PAYEN: NJ650, NK157, REINZ: 815340400.

Dont use too much thread lock on the small Allen bolts as they can be tricky to remove!

Al

Declan
Many thanks for your input, just found a few drips....so,following your lead, a couple of hours of CAD and tin snips and came up with this...just waiting the open-cell foam.
John ;-)

The foam came today, slacken off the two bolts remove tray, fit foam , replace 5 minutes..

John ;-)

Well done with the tray but it has not cured the underlying problem of oil exiting past the rear scroll.
Cure the underlying problem and you would not require the tray.

Correct, but meanwhile, I'm not barred from my friends drives..

John ;-)