Full Body Respray

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ptitterington
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Post by ptitterington »

Thanks too I have been following this thread with interest.

One question I was wondering about, I have just got hold of a started but never got far project. The wood is pretty sound is it worth grit blasting the whole car wood and all?

Thanks
Traveller rebuilt in 2007 by Charles Ware's Morris Minor Centre
Pickup Fully restored 2011 by Rich Legg

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chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

err, no. The best way to restore a traveller is to take the wood off- as there are a few parts that you cannot easily get to with it on.

I have found a quick way of stripping the old varnish off the wood- it worked for me! I used wood bleach and scraped it off (together with the old varnish and discoloured surface) using whats known as a "Scarsten scraper", then sand down the woos and re-varnish/ stain to taste.

Yes, this thread is brilliant, I think someone should summarise the information and put it in a concise form, either on the useful tips, or on a web page.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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Squiggle
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Post by Squiggle »

Phil asks: As a fairly new Moggy Owner, I am looking for someone in Ayrshire, Scotland who comes recommended and is good value for money...

Me asks: Can anyone personally recommend the same [ie spray work needed] in the Bedford/Northampton/Milton Keynes areas please?

Ta and Happy Bank Holiday!

Squiggle.
ColinP
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Post by ColinP »

Having seen the Alfa I'll second Jonathon's comment about sand blasting!

Sand balsting a traveller with the wood on would soon turn it into a traveller without wood on! :wink:

Squiggle, How about JLH? -it's not that far from MK.

Colin
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Post by Squiggle »

Squiggle, How about JLH? -it's not that far from MK.

Thanks Colin but --- who is JLH?

Can you/anyone recommend him/them?

Squiggle

ps sorry about the previous double posting! :oops:
Cam
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Post by Cam »

Chrissie,

JLH is run by Jonathon (see above posts). I have seen his quality of workmanship up close and if you need more information, PM (or e-mail, or ring me actually!) and I'll give you some more details (more appropriate that way I think).

He's based in Leamington Spa anyway...
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Post by ColinP »

Squiggle,

PM'ed you.

Colin
plastic_orange
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Post by plastic_orange »

Here's some before and after shots of panels that went for bead blasting. Bead blasting is possibly the mildest form of blasting, so if this happens with what I thought was sound panels, then be very careful with grit blasting.
Although I have had dozens of parts blasted over the years, I'm forever surprised at the state some arrive back in - it is very hard to judge if your panel is good or not (most early parts are quite good though)
I bought supposedly immaculate doors off of E bay a while back - if you think the 1000 front panel was bad? Still it's only work and money!!!

Cheers

Pete

Panels for Blasting

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1000 front panel
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Close up 1000 panel - very frilly
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Comparison MM panel and 1000 spot the difference!!

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[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/sinky_aps/4e634210.jpg[/img] [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/sinky_aps/MorrisRain4.jpg[/img]
Onne
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Post by Onne »

that front panel needs a hole lot of work...... LOL
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sinky_aps
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Post by sinky_aps »

No, it needs thrown in the bin!!!
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ptitterington
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Post by ptitterington »

I have had quite a lot of grit blasting done at work(building work) and have been suprised how well oak and even pine stands up to the process. I had presumed that the ash would be pretty hard. I just was not too sure about the aluminium. I have had two tipper bodies blasted, 1 steel and 1 aluminium and the results were excellent and painted up a treat.

Still I dont think Ill risk it.
Traveller rebuilt in 2007 by Charles Ware's Morris Minor Centre
Pickup Fully restored 2011 by Rich Legg

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plastic_orange
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Post by plastic_orange »

My mate also blasts oak framed homes to clean the wood, but uses special media as wood can stain. You are quite safe blasting heavy gauge metals, but have a go at an unsupported panel and see what you are left with. As I said, just do the underneath, and edges with grit, but use bead blasting for doors, grille, wings etc.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/sinky_aps/4e634210.jpg[/img] [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/sinky_aps/MorrisRain4.jpg[/img]
lowedb
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Post by lowedb »

A further question for your opinions:
Etch primer seems to be universally recommended, and I can understand why. However, I was told to use a zinc rich primer, because the high zinc content chemically protects the steel, much like the galvanising on modern cars. So:
1. What do people think of the relative merits
2:Is there such a thging as a zinc rich, etch primer?
Hello from Audrey, Beast, Tara, Robin, and of course Mog.

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Cam
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Post by Cam »

I was under the impression that the Halfords Zinc primer had some etch in it. Might be wrong, but that's what I thought.

I personally would use the zince for underbody and the etch for top body work. The zinc (that I used, anyway) is a bit 'lumpy' so would have to be flatted a lot before overspraying.
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

I believe POR15 is etch priming, rust killing and is Zinc rich.

Never used it myself, though.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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