Morris Minor Owners Club

This evening I was checking my 1963 1000 (former 2-door saloon) convertible for snags before her MOT (she has discs, a 1275 engine and other mods - plus, you can't be too careful with old cars.)

I checked the wipers - OK

Indicators - OK

Brake lights - OK

Sidelights - nope.

Main lights - nada.

They were all working when she went into the lock-up last autumn.

Where has all the electricity gone?

Checked both fuses - they appear to be unblown. Cars runs normally.

I'm afraid that I regard electricity in all its forms as the work of Satan - you can't see it, hear it or smell it but it can kill you - and you can't even see where it's leaking out.

I simply haven't got a clue...

Any clues as to where I should look for the missing electricity to all the lights? Is it likely to be a switch issue?

Check the brown/blue wire on A1 on the regulator and then check the other end of that wire where it feeds the light switch. This is where your electricity has been lost - probably.

I would think you have lost the supply to the light switch.
You have most likely had an alternator fitted along with the 1275 so the wiring will probably have been changed from standard.
Originally the supply for the lights was via the Brown with Blue tracer wire on terminal A1 of the control box. This could have been moved to the starter solenoid or direct to the battery, or may have just come off the terminal A1.
It could also be the switch faulty but I think you would be better off tracing that Brown and Blue wire under the bonnet, also it may have had an extra fuse fitted.
The Brown/Blue wire has a permanent 12Volts so be careful not to short it to the car earth as it isn't fused.
A test light or multimeter would be handy.
Edit:I take too long typing and Beero has answered since I started, at least we agree.
Regards John

Thanks chaps... I'll try and find the leak by following your leads...

However, I fully expect to get one hell of a belt at some stage during the process... standard procedure for me!

'...I fully expect to get one hell of a belt at some stage during the process...'

Yeah, I like a drink too.

Before you start make sure the battery terminal is loose for quick removal or remove altogether.
No fear of a shock, more a fear of burning, as I said it has no fuse protection and can get very hot and burn you with the added bonus of melting plastic over your hand if you short the wire. If it isn’t obvious what is wrong and you decide to delve behind the dash it would be better to disconnect the battery.
Regards John

... and remove jewellery (rings, wrist-watch etc) too!

Palacebear that’s a good point about the watch etc, that’s the reason I always wear a plastic watch.
I might sound dramatic but my brother got badly burnt removing a radio once and I’ve seen and repaired the results of too many burnt looms.
Regards John

I know a chap who's wedding ring finger is permanently branded following a close encounter with dynamo terminals!

You're not helping, guys!!!

Sorry, just pointing out you won’t be getting a shock, you only get that from the coil, but to be aware of the amount of current with short circuits.
Anyhow I think you will spot the problem straight away.
Good luck.
Regards John

UPDATE:

Looked for Voltage Regulator by fusebox on firewall.

I don't have one.

Seems to be some sort of big silver box on front inner wing r/h/s...

Anyway, lights have miraculously fixed themselves and now all work.

All I can think I have done since finding the problem is tighten the battery earth strap mounting bolt right up.

Perhaps that was the problem, though all the other electrics worked, so I am none the wiser.

However, the old girl's off for her MOT in the morning...

Then, a desperately-needed rolling road tune, after I spent ages mucking about with carb / mixture etc, to try and cure her refusal to run - which was down to a dodgy distributor, in the end.

Thanks for all your helpful suggestions.

I don’t think it was the battery earth as you’d probably started the car like that.
As I suspected the wiring has been altered.
Difficult to say without seeing it but:-
The silver box most likely is used to tidy up (hide) the cable joins, so may be worth a look inside.
The 12V feed will most likely come from the starter solenoid where the battery cable is attached.
Hopefully they will stay working, I did wonder if they have been erroneously wired as to work only with ignition on, guess you would've noticed that.
Good luck with the MOT.
Regards John

OP says car is a '63 so possibly the silver box on the inner wing is the relay for the 'flashing brake light' indicator arrangement originally fitted.

Thanks Palacebear that will explain that one.
Silly me I had forgotten about the flashing brake lights.
Regards John