drivers chassis leg

[chickenjohn]

Yes, it is and its the afore mentioned car too. That was taken at the Grove Ferry pub where the East Kent branch have our meetings. I was trying to get the picture to show on my signature.

[bigginger]

I guessed that ;) you need to remove the <img src=" and the "> and replace them with [img]and[/img]. Very smart, BTW - the car too
a

[chickenjohn]

Thanks! ironic that someone who does the EKMM website (needs an update BTW) can't get a picture to show in his signature, I think i was being too smart and trying to use HTML.
Dull paint yes, but the car was at least roadworthy then! That was its best side! ;)

Got the signature to work, although I'm going to have to post a re-sized version of that pic as its going to annoy dial up folk.

[57traveller]

Got the signature to work, although I'm going to have to post a re-sized version of that pic as its going to annoy dial up folk.

Yes it is! - "Cinemascope!"

[Willie]

CHICKENJOHN.... re the reversed master cylinder bolts fouling the
torsion bar. Simple really to grind the end of the bolts down
enough to NOT foul the bar Easy for a man of your calibre, and
a lot easier than dropping the suspension( unless you're a masochist)!

[chickenjohn]

I tried that, but not having a tap and die set at the time, it wrecked the threads and the nut and it was very fiddly. Should maybe have ground to the required length with the nut in place......

So I got some new nuts and bolts and dropped the suspension, 50 mins later I had the master cylinder back in, and while the front suspension was apart, I changed the bushes as the old were looking tired. Result?

Brakes that work and a front end that felt like new!!

But, my motto is, if it work, then it works, so if you get the torsion bar bending trick to work, then fine, do it!

I did not like it and, really , dropping the front suspension is not that bad!!

[grainger]

hi

thanks for all your advice ... ive been outside most of the weekend under the car - the piece of the leg that needs replacing is less than a foot and it is between the master cylinder and the eyebolt ... i think its going to be possible to plate the bottom as the sides are all solid.

i had some help from a guy who is a mechanic and he insists that brake fluid IS flammable, apparently it is the only fluid in the car which if you were to drip it on a hot manifold would self ignite !!! petrol and oil will just smoke and evaporate but brake fluid bursts into flame he reckons its not a problem here as im far enough away from the cylinder so i can leave it in place

john .. excellent car ... even if it is a bit big !! .. ps yes please send us a link to your music

cheers
grainger

[Cam]

i had some help from a guy who is a mechanic and he insists that brake fluid IS flammable, apparently it is the only fluid in the car which if you were to drip it on a hot manifold would self ignite !!!

Well, the flash point for brake fluid is over 1000 degrees C, so if you can get your manifold THAT hot then fair comment! but for that sort of temperature it needs to be glowing bright yellow!!

Rob Thomason (MMOC Technical chap) ALSO says that it's flammable, but I have tried it and it isn't. Also all the data sheets from the manufacturers state that it isn't either..........

If you want to err on the side of caution then fine, but believe me, petrol is MUCH more dangerous!

If you are still in doubt then have a look at:

http://library.cbest.chevron.com/lubes/ ... enDocument

http://www.hillsidegarage.f9.co.uk/aplockheed/ap.htm

And go try lighting some!!

[bigginger]

For what it's worth, here's the link to the film Cam mentioned -
http://www.nogginthemog.com/images/fluid.mov
Reasonably big/slow download, BTW

I did - it does. Fairly hard to 'beat out' too, it seems to just keep on burning. Agreed 100% though, petrol is lots more dangerous!

[Cam]

It burns 'slowly' but it's not classified as flamable and I have welded through it and could not get it to light myself........

[Chris Morley]

<warning! thread hijack!>

I wouldn't worry John - this is one of those rare threads that hasn't gone wildly off topic!

[rayofleamington]

Well, the flash point for brake fluid is over 1000 degrees C

really? We must use different stuff in our brake fluid hydraulic systems then

[Cam]

Well, that's what it said on a website for DOT 4 spec fluid.

I take it from your comment that it's wrong then! So, what (in your experience) is the flash point for brake fluid?

[chickenjohn]

If the flash point of brakefluid is 1000 deg C, then its worth remembering that MiG welding generates those sorts of temperatures (albeit localised and momentary).

I'd say to be on the safe side assume ALL fluids on the car and EVERYTHING except bare steel or rust on your car is potentially flammable. (Even screenwash if it contains enough methanol).

[Matt]

What about radiator water with no anti-freeze?

[Cam]

Yep, that too!

[rayofleamington]

I figured out last night that I'd confused the boiling point with the flash point

[chickenjohn]

What about radiator water with no anti-freeze?

Two points:-

1. Soldering not welding is the reccommended repair for radiators, and that should be on a clean dry rad.

2. Its not a good idea to run a car or even have a car standing with no antifreeze in the cooling water!

[Onne]

Because antifreeze stops everything corroding internally! Very important if you don't use the car everyday