Morris Minor Owners Club

I was hoping to obtain some double ended wheel nuts, but it seems that there are none to be had.
I do not have a post office van, just a standard pickup. The reason I wanted some double ended nuts is a matter of safety.
When I torque up standard wheel nuts, there is a little bit of stud sticking out of the top of the nuts. Using double ended nuts means that the whole of the stud is covered. Minor studs and nuts are not very beefy in the first place, and the torque setting is, i think, only 39 ft lbs.
Having the whole of the stud contacted by the nuts has surely got to be stronger.
There are replacement 'long' nuts on ebay, but I do not think any of them are suitable for the Minor. Mini nuts have the wrong taper, and chromed nuts are too 'slippery' to be safe, as they may come undone.

If I may say so, I think you are worrying unnecessarily

My studs are 52 years old and probably quite worn. I know i could replace them but don't want the bother. Read on here sometimes of wheels dropping off......

Minor wheel studs are more than adequate even after 50 plus years. Its the nuts that give the problems not the studs.
Replace the wheel nuts with standard items and all will be well.

The threads on a fixing take the load progressively, the first two threads taking over half the load, as long as you have at least 6 threads fully engaged and the nuts are in good condition you should be ok.

stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:24 am My studs are 52 years old and probably quite worn. I know i could replace them but don't want the bother. Read on here sometimes of wheels dropping off......

I don't think the wheel falls off the hub, more the trunnion gives up the fight and separates.
Unless your wheel nuts are loose then I would not worry, keep them torqued to the required amount and as long as you do regular checks you will be fine.

I was once told that if I wanted to stop the trunnions from failing to make sure that I greased them once a month. I do this at the start of the month no matter how many miles I have done in the car. It would be interesting to know what others do.

stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 7:50 am
I do not have a post office van, just a standard pickup. The reason I wanted some double ended nuts is a matter of safety.
When I torque up standard wheel nuts, there is a little bit of stud sticking out of the top of the nuts. Using double ended nuts means that the whole of the stud is covered.

I was an RAF aircraft engineer for 37 years.
Basic mechanical engineering regarding Nuts & Bolts, or Studs and Nuts was always that a minimum of 1.5 threads must be showing after the nut is correctly torqued down "unless the design engineer has specified otherwise". Such an exception was rarely documented; the only one I ever recall was due to a very limited clearance on the final assembly configuration.

So if I didn't have a little bit of stud protruding from the nut, I'd be very worried.

paul 300358 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:55 am I was once told that if I wanted to stop the trunnions from failing to make sure that I greased them once a month. I do this at the start of the month no matter how many miles I have done in the car. It would be interesting to know what others do.

When they start rattling!

The Motor Sport Association (MSA) requirements for nut to stud length engagement is 1.5 x diameter of the stud. I always overegg it and uses 1.625 x diameter.
As above there should be at least 1.5 threads visible at the outer end of the nut.

Phil

geoberni wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:51 am

stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 7:50 am
I do not have a post office van, just a standard pickup. The reason I wanted some double ended nuts is a matter of safety.
When I torque up standard wheel nuts, there is a little bit of stud sticking out of the top of the nuts. Using double ended nuts means that the whole of the stud is covered.

I was an RAF aircraft engineer for 37 years.
Basic mechanical engineering regarding Nuts & Bolts, or Studs and Nuts was always that a minimum of 1.5 threads must be showing after the nut is correctly torqued down "unless the design engineer has specified otherwise". Such an exception was rarely documented; the only one I ever recall was due to a very limited clearance on the final assembly configuration.

So if I didn't have a little bit of stud protruding from the nut, I'd be very worried.

Why? Is that just for neatness? Surely if all of the thread on the stud is contacted, the mechanical strength is at maximum?

Just because all of the threads are covered does not mean there is additional mechanical advantage or security.

Everything is down to the material strength (for both stud and nut) and diameter of the fixing.

Phil

stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 12:32 pm

Why? Is that just for neatness? Surely if all of the thread on the stud is contacted, the mechanical strength is at maximum?

For general 'rule of thumb' safety; for example, if you can't see any threads, how do you know it's all the way down?
If it's a nut & bolt, how do you know someone hasn't fitted a bold that's too short?
If it's a nut onto a stud and you don't have anything showing on them, how do you know one of them isn't loose?

If you torque the nuts down, you know they are down.
I don't have x-ray vision, so I can't see through the hub cap to see if one of the nuts has come loose!
I like to fit and go. Don't want to keep taking hub caps on and off.

stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:08 pm If you torque the nuts down, you know they are down.
I don't have x-ray vision, so I can't see through the hub cap to see if one of the nuts has come loose!
I like to fit and go. Don't want to keep taking hub caps on and off.

Please yourself. Sounds like you're going to anyway.
You can keep your sarcastic 'XRay Vision' comments and exclamation marks.
Both I and Phil, gave you the sound engineering principle that has been around for many, many decades and will certainly pre-date your car, as to why there is usually expected to be 1.5 threads min showing.
But if you've already made your mind up, why ask?

Consider this...
If you have a problem, such as with a damaged thread, it could be possible to torque a nut down and it get tight before it was bottomed out correctly.
And that's my final comment on this topic.

Sorry if you have taken the hump. I did not mean to be sarcastic, or disrespectful.
Thank you for the advice.