Hi Simon
Thanks for coming back.
I sent you a Private Message (PM), but you need to be logged in and then go to the 'Private Message' link at the top of the screen to pick it up.
Several posts back, the same one as where I asked about the car year, I asked if you could confirm the colours you were dealing with because you said you were dealing with solid colours Blue, Red & Black, but the Main and Dip are twin colour cables.
The Side Light supply is Red
The Main Beam is Blue/White
The Dip beam is Blue/Red
Earth is Black
When you said you have
Just sorted out the connections, reflectors, bulbs etc..
I don't suppose you have inadvertently used a twin barrel insulated Snap Connector at Point A on the diagram below, instead of one that connects all 4 cable entries together?
You said you changed all the connectors, are they solder or crimp? Could you have forgotten to bare the cable at a bullet and have crimped onto the insulation in error (stranger things have happened, believe me).
But leaving that aside for a moment, this is the diagram for the 56-63 Flashing Indicator wiring standard (Fig N29)
- Headlight check.jpg (250.45 KiB) Viewed 1701 times
The basics of fault finding with a meter is to work in halves on the circuit, you said the RH Dip Beam works fine so at this moment, we will assume Point A is good for a supply. The green line being your working Driver's side Dip Beam.
1- Turn the lights onto Dip Beam
2 - Using your multimeter, set on DC Volts, connected with the Black cable to a confirmed Earth (Battery -ve perhaps) use the Red Probe to check for 11+ volts at the Snap connector B (Passenger side, with Blue/Red wires).
If there's no Voltage there, the fault is between Connectors B and back to A. This is a single length of cable with a connector bullet on each end so shouldn't be hard to find a break or bad connection.
However, if there is voltage there...the fault lies between B and Earth.
Disconnect the incoming bullet from the 2Way Connector B.
Switch the Multimeter to Ohms and leaving the Black on the Earth, check the resistance from the point where you just removed the cable. The reading should only be a few ohms, the value of the filament in the lamp; if it's high, the fault is probably the bulb holder or a connection in that short section of the wiring, because you said the bulb has been changed and that the high beam works (so the earth connection should be fine).
That took longer to write than it would to do it.
I hope you can follow it.
I've tried to explain it in greatest detail, even if some might think it too obvious, but you never know who might read it in the future.
let us all know how you get on.
Berni