Oh dear

[TerryG]

I decided that as it was a nice day today that i would start doing some work on the mog to rust-proof it so i went out and got some waxoil and a spray thing for it. I started off brushing off some "surface" rust and then this happened








Whoops, Does anybody know that the names of the pannels i need to replace there are? other than the bottoms of the A and B posts. That long pannel with the holes in it is only tacked on at the top, is that normal? Does anybody local to the Borehamwood / Harrow area fancy earning a few quid (As i dont have a very high opinion of our local morris "experts") and helping me fix it?
I wasnt brave enough to touch the other side.
I think i am going to have to put my upgrade plans on one side for the foresable future as that looks EXPENCIVE!
Excuse the realy technical description but should the bottom of the shiny bit that covers my lovely iron oxide sill have been welded on?

Is it possible to buy just the bits of wood that i need to sort the back out and varnish the whole lot so it looks the same colour?

[jonathon]

Oh dear indeed!

The horizontal panel is a boxing panel usually around £14. you also need the outer undersill panel ,specify its for a traveller as they are different, these are around £13. The hinge pillar and B post you know about. You may possibly need the floor edge panel. this is fitted to the floor,boxing plate and outer undersill. The boxing panel we plug weld at the top then seam weld the top edge, the other panel work should all be seam welded. Spray all inaccesable areas with weld through zinc paint then spray the whole lot, and paint to suit. Make sure you clean up the welds with either a wire wheel on a drill or a small local shot blaster. The welds are the first area to rust if not cleaned up properly. If you want some pics of how to repair this area I can e-mail them to you . Please use my website or e-mail address available somewhere on this forum.
A problem you may have here is that the rot has extended rearwards of the B post, this unfortunately is more difficult to repair and may need the removal of the timber.

[TerryG]

I was debating removing the timber anyway as there are a couple of bits I am not happy with. I think my car is conspiring against me.

[jonathon]

They very often do!!.

[TerryG]

btw the pic that is mostly red with 2 holes in it is the roof above the drivers door. Is there anything i should be doing with that other than filler and painting over?

[TerryG]

More rude words are called for. The B post where it bulged out in the middle next to the lock has rusted through. I have been looking on the internet but I can't find anywhere that advertises a complete B post. Is this something that is not available? I am beginning to think that I may have bought a big red lemon

[jonathon]

You can no longer purchase the complete bottom end of the B post nor indeed the whole post. You can howeverfor the bottom repair, purchase the n/s and o/s parts and weld them together to make one unit. The shape of these parts is pretty poor though so you may need to cut and shut a bit. The roof should be repaired by welding in relevant patches, but is you are in need of a quick fix then filler or glass fiber and paint will have to do. Looking at your pics again ,it might be prudent to fit a new inner sill at this stage as it seems pointless to weld good panels to rusty ones, and as this area is the strongest structure in the moggy then it should be treated with a full panel rather than local patches. Its also easy to get to to clean up and weld when the boxing plate and outer /undersill are removed. Good luck, let me know if you require pics, I have thousands literally!!

[bigginger]

The shape of these parts is pretty poor though so you may need to cut and shut a bit.

In my fairly limited experience, you can delete the word 'pretty', and substitute the word 'will' for the word 'may'...

[TerryG]

I'll go out and take another pic of the B post when i have finished attacking it with a wire brush. I had assumed (after looking at the diagram o&shy;n MGM's web site) that&nbsp;i would need a new inner sill. The floor is solid though (has had the edge of it repaired fairly recently probably at the same time some &%$*^£ welded o&shy;n the sill cover plates <IMG src="http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/modules/ ... &nbsp;I'll have a go at the passinger side too (hopefully the car wont snap in half!) I hope it'll survive the drive to my dads (where my new MIG is) I don't think this car deserves the 6 months MOT it has left!

[bigginger]

An extraordinary number of them don't, mine included...

[chickenjohn]

It could take six months to perfect your welding and then sort the car out. (I'd take the front wing off and repair the inner wing and hinge pillar and weld in the front of the boxing plate in).

take the wood off and other surprises will not doubt be revealed.

[SR]

what a drag terry, i suppose we should all insist o­n removall of kickplates from sill, before theres a removall of money from wallet, i didnt when i looked at my splitty,if i did ,i might not have bought it ,or paid £250 for it ,looked really good o­n outside ,and underside "i thought". probably o­nly worth a o­nner, still i wanted a resto , steve

[TerryG]

I paid £1500 for that 2 months ago. I am a little annoied. It looked solid enough on the outside, and it proved to be the case




solid filler!

[jonathon]

when I view cars for customers I insist on the removal of the kick plates, if the seller is unwilling, then I walk away, unless they can offer pictorial evidence that the area has either been restored, or is in good order. Several sellers have prepared a contract for this occasion outlining that if any damage is done to their vehicle by the removal of this kick plate then I am duty bound to repair the area. This instance never really materialises, as if the kick plate is welded on, I do not look at the car, Unbolting a correctly fitted panel and kick plate, should not, cause any damage anyway.

[Matt]

Its probably better than our trav, ooer... however I think our B post is prety solid, and as you know I am breaking it.... i will have a proper poke in the next few days if you might be interested in it!

[TerryG]

If you fancy taking a grinder to it then thats fine by me If this was a car i had for years i wouldnt be complaining and would probably scrap it as it looks like LOTS of work to sort it out. As I have only had it for 9 weeks (I think) I can't afford to just write it off so it needs to be repaired! If my bank manager is in a forgiving mood then the red traveller for sale close to the bottom of the page here looks v. tempting http://www.jlhmorrisminors.co.uk/

[jonathon]

Even more so now Terry as the price has been dropped, Pm me if interested ,its at the workshop now just asking for a chance to hit the road.

[TerryG]

I am interested but i think at the moment unless its a MAJOR drop its out of my price range.
I have put up some more pictures of what happenes when you remove old filler from your car:
http://www.geocities.com/hardware_man_2k3/
I would have posted them here but I dont want to wast peoples bandwith. Apologies for the lousy quality images i only had my mobile phone camera to hand.

[Matt]

Well I am stripping the car out, and most of the bodyshell will end up at the scrappy, so if you decide you do need it.....

[TerryG]

I cant find anywhere on-line that offers the part but i will have a ring around tomorrow and see. Thanks for the offer.