Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

If the driver is incapacitated by some kind of medical event whilst driving or is unconscious after an accident it is useful if the passenger can activate the hazards. Whilst driving I have had the passenger activate the hazards whilst I have had to brake heavily due to unexpected stopped traffic on a motorway
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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geoberni
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by geoberni »

svenedin wrote: Fri Jan 27, 2023 2:17 pm If the driver is incapacitated by some kind of medical event whilst driving or is unconscious after an accident it is useful if the passenger can activate the hazards. Whilst driving I have had the passenger activate the hazards whilst I have had to brake heavily due to unexpected stopped traffic on a motorway
:o
If I were a passenger and the driver was incapacitated while the vehicle was moving, the last thing I'd be worrying about would be some light switch.
It would be grabbing the steering wheel to steer the car to a safe stop....

Equally it's a far more effective response time to put the Hazards on yourself than to ask someone to do it for you.
It might be miliseconds, but immediately doing it yourself is faster than adding another person and their mental processing time into the sequence of events.....
But stick it wherever you want, it's your car.
Basil the 1955 series II

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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

geoberni wrote: Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:42 pm
svenedin wrote: Fri Jan 27, 2023 2:17 pm If the driver is incapacitated by some kind of medical event whilst driving or is unconscious after an accident it is useful if the passenger can activate the hazards. Whilst driving I have had the passenger activate the hazards whilst I have had to brake heavily due to unexpected stopped traffic on a motorway
:o
If I were a passenger and the driver was incapacitated while the vehicle was moving, the last thing I'd be worrying about would be some light switch.
It would be grabbing the steering wheel to steer the car to a safe stop....

Equally it's a far more effective response time to put the Hazards on yourself than to ask someone to do it for you.
It might be miliseconds, but immediately doing it yourself is faster than adding another person and their mental processing time into the sequence of events.....
But stick it wherever you want, it's your car.
Actually in my case the passenger switched on the hazards, without being asked, before I had a chance to do it myself so reacted faster than I did. I was braking and steering with no time to activate the hazards. Whether this prevented me being rear-ended I don't know.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

I am still pondering this. The convertible is very limited in terms of locations due to the arched reinforcing panels on either side of the dashboard.

I have an idea to fit an angle bracket to the "lip" on the underside of the dashboard which would then give me a surface to attach a standard switch bracket. I don't know how I would make such a bracket because I don't have any suitable metal or the skills or tools to cut it accurately.

I am demonstrating what I mean with a piece of cardboard.

Or a piece of metal with a suitable hole to mount a switch could be attached directly to that lip (as with the heater control).
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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by JOWETTJAVELIN »

I would obtain a Lucas 155 unit or equivalent and fit it under the parcel shelf as arrowed then feed the wires up the back.

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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

JOWETTJAVELIN wrote: Tue Jan 31, 2023 7:02 pm I would obtain a Lucas 155 unit or equivalent and fit it under the parcel shelf as arrowed then feed the wires up the back.


4A81104E-C4D6-4BDD-BBBD-7A98C0F3C88A.jpeg
Thank you. I had not thought of that location at all and will definitely investigate further.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by Bill_qaz »

Or under the glove box, the nuts don't show under the glove box liner, the bracket comes with the switch and unit fitted.
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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

Bill_qaz wrote: Tue Jan 31, 2023 10:45 pm Or under the glove box, the nuts don't show under the glove box liner, the bracket comes with the switch and unit fitted.
20220310_131723.jpg
Ah yes. I considered that position. Have you mounted into the glovebox surround or immediately behind it? I thought that position would make future removal of the glovebox a bit nightmarish?
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by Bill_qaz »

No it's through the actual body. Hinge screws removed an door lifted away, then under the glove box liner to fit nuts without removing the liner. I did the same for the gauge bracket. Not sure if yours has a glove box door or just a surround.
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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

Bill_qaz wrote: Wed Feb 01, 2023 2:04 pm No it's through the actual body. Hinge screws removed an door lifted away, then under the glove box liner to fit nuts without removing the liner. I did the same for the gauge bracket. Not sure if yours has a glove box door or just a surround.
Mine has just has a surround, no door. Removing the surround is a horrible job. Even with the steering wheel off and the shroud around the indicator assembly removed it still catches on the top attachment point of the indicator shroud. An infuriating detail of the Morris Minor. If the steering column outer tube is dropped down it becomes easy but then the self cancelling of the indicators has to be set up correctly again. A good excuse to check it and grease I suppose. Also makes the fact that the glovebox liner has a hole to access the speedo retaining screw an absolute boon. Otherwise so much work to change a blown bulb on the speedo.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by Bill_qaz »

svenedin wrote: Wed Feb 01, 2023 2:25 pm
Bill_qaz wrote: Wed Feb 01, 2023 2:04 pm No it's through the actual body. Hinge screws removed an door lifted away, then under the glove box liner to fit nuts without removing the liner. I did the same for the gauge bracket. Not sure if yours has a glove box door or just a surround.
Mine has just has a surround, no door. Removing the surround is a horrible job. Even with the steering wheel off and the shroud around the indicator assembly removed it still catches on the top attachment point of the indicator shroud. An infuriating detail of the Morris Minor. If the steering column outer tube is dropped down it becomes easy but then the self cancelling of the indicators has to be set up correctly again. A good excuse to check it and grease I suppose. Also makes the fact that the glovebox liner has a hole to access the speedo retaining screw an absolute boon. Otherwise so much work to change a blown bulb on the speedo.
That's sounds like a lot of work, I would just drill pilot holes and use self tapping screws or bolts. :tu1:
Regards Bill
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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

Bill_qaz wrote: Wed Feb 01, 2023 2:32 pm
svenedin wrote: Wed Feb 01, 2023 2:25 pm
Bill_qaz wrote: Wed Feb 01, 2023 2:04 pm No it's through the actual body. Hinge screws removed an door lifted away, then under the glove box liner to fit nuts without removing the liner. I did the same for the gauge bracket. Not sure if yours has a glove box door or just a surround.
Mine has just has a surround, no door. Removing the surround is a horrible job. Even with the steering wheel off and the shroud around the indicator assembly removed it still catches on the top attachment point of the indicator shroud. An infuriating detail of the Morris Minor. If the steering column outer tube is dropped down it becomes easy but then the self cancelling of the indicators has to be set up correctly again. A good excuse to check it and grease I suppose. Also makes the fact that the glovebox liner has a hole to access the speedo retaining screw an absolute boon. Otherwise so much work to change a blown bulb on the speedo.
That's sounds like a lot of work, I would just drill pilot holes and use self tapping screws or bolts. :tu1:
Yes absolutely but I have both gloveboxes out and the heater out at the moment anyway......
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Physical fitting of new Switches e.g for Hazards (basics)

Post by svenedin »

My car now has hazard lights. Hurray!

Thank you for all your suggestions and advice. In the end I fitted a kit from Bettercarlighting.co.uk really only because the switch is small and discreet and looks about right. The kit is expensive for what it is and annoyed me because the BS-AU7 wiring colours are not followed. Anyway, it is installed and works so that is the main thing.

I hit upon some luck during the installation. I found a purple wire (permanent live) ending in a bullet connector socket that was unused. It had a very old cardboard parcel tag on it but whatever was written on it had disappeared. I don't know what this wire was for but maybe for interior lights (which are not present on a convertible)? Actually you can see that parcel tag in my photo below.
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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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