Replacing hinges

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radioactiveman
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Replacing hinges

Post by radioactiveman »

Hello!

Since I've had my car the passenger side has required either a big slam or a lift and a slightly gentler slam to facilitate closing. I suspect the hinges are very worn as you can manually move the door to where it aligns. I've noticed it's rubbed the pillar so I feel like I ought to do something about it :roll:

Do I need to replace both hinges or will just the top one fix my problem?

Thanks!
Sleeper
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by Sleeper »

You could replace the top hinge pin with an oversized one...

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/hinge-pin

John ;-)
radioactiveman
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by radioactiveman »

Sleeper wrote: Tue Jun 06, 2023 4:03 pm You could replace the top hinge pin with an oversized one...

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/hinge-pin

John ;-)
I did see those, and it certainly seems cheaper.... but is it a complete pita?
simmitc
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by simmitc »

Check that it is not the A-post that is moving; but if that is solid, then I would replace both hinges at the same time; either with replacement hinges or by fitting the oversize pins. You can also buy laser cut shims in various thicknesses to help align the doors.

When refitting, use a bolt without a head (cut it off an old bolt) screwed a little way into the pillar. You can then rest the hinge on that whilst you fit some proper bolts in the other holes - much easier than trying to lift and hold the door in place.
simmitc
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by simmitc »

Yes, removing the old pin can be a PITA, and you need to be vary careful to drill the new holes squarely in the hinge. Much easier to exchange the hinges and let someone else have the trouble.
radioactiveman
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by radioactiveman »

So, thank you for the advice everyone!

I have now fitted new hinges. I’m glad I didn’t bother thinking about drilling the existing ones. It’s been so stressful I almost smashed the car up out of pure anger. Also, my door is about 60% rust… but that’s a problem for another day :-?

Thankfully my droop has gone. However, I now have an issue where the door is very tight and needs a slam, I’ve tried adjusting what I can but I can’t see a good way of loosening things. It always did need a slam so perhaps it’s not the original door or something.

:-? :-? :-?
simmitc
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by simmitc »

Well done so far. A properly adjusted door will close and clunk without undue effort. You may need to loosen the top frame, get the bottom part of the door closing correctly and then adjust the top. If you smear some Vaseline all round the door, then you should be able to see where the door is binding. Remember to wipe excess away before it goes everywhere :)

Door adjustment is an art, the hinges can move in and out and up and down on both the pillar and the door. The good news is that you've done the hard work. Of course, you may want to wait until you have a repaired not rusty door, but too much slamming is not good for the frame, the hinges or the door and could lead to further problems.
radioactiveman
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by radioactiveman »

simmitc wrote: Tue Jun 20, 2023 10:24 pm Well done so far. A properly adjusted door will close and clunk without undue effort. You may need to loosen the top frame, get the bottom part of the door closing correctly and then adjust the top. If you smear some Vaseline all round the door, then you should be able to see where the door is binding. Remember to wipe excess away before it goes everywhere :)

Door adjustment is an art, the hinges can move in and out and up and down on both the pillar and the door. The good news is that you've done the hard work. Of course, you may want to wait until you have a repaired not rusty door, but too much slamming is not good for the frame, the hinges or the door and could lead to further problems.
Thank you! Yes, I’ve done some further tweaking and it’s better but still a bit slammy. I’d say my shutting technique is leaning toward persuasive, rather than aggressive now and the top of the door no longer hits the B pillar if it closed without lifting, so I’m going to take it as a net positive.

I was probably being a bit dramatic when I said 60% rust, but they’re certainly a bit crumbly in the usual places!
simmitc
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Re: Replacing hinges

Post by simmitc »

We've concentrated on the hinges as you said that you'd adjusted what you could; but just checking that you realised that the striker plate and ring on the B-post can be adjusted (and need to be in good condition); and the chrome pin on the rear of the door also needs to be in good condition to engage with the ring on the B-post. A poorly fitted cover plate on the sill can impede the door. So much to consider!
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